wut are sum good website 2 find a puppy.i am looking to get a Carin Terrier(not to show)...thnks!
Answers:
www.petfinder.com
here try the humane socitey if u live in Winnipeg heres a link!
http://www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca/adop...
Good luck!
www.petfinder.com
I would not buy a dog online or from anyone that would ship. That would be a horrible place to buy a dog. Also don't buy your dog in a newspaper. Try carin Terrier club of america, and look for breeders on there, they are really good breeders.
you can try
petfinder.com
or
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/a-z.htm...
they heave all the info including pics.
You could look online and type in "Carin Terrier" into a search engine... or you could call your local vet or pound and ask them where they would go if they were looking for a specific dog.
Look at the 'Find Breeder' in this website
http://www.cairnterrier.org/
Here's two you can check http://petfinder.com %26 http://puppyfind.com
puppyfind.com
terrificpets.com
petfinder.com
livedeal.com
nextdaypets.com
pupcity.com
Friday, July 31, 2009
Finding a good home for my 7month old puppy?
I have a dog that i have to get rid of,she is a black lab mix with rechiver i would of love to keep her but i am about to move and they dont accept pets
Answers:
I am sorry you are faced with this, but I have always said, if I were a renter %26 the landlord wouldn't accept my pets, "I wouldn't accept that person to be my landlord". I'd look else where to move because getting pets are meant to be a committment for as long as they live.
Advertise in the papaer, that way the people can come round to your hosue, view the dog, and you can see if they seem suitable to looking after your dog.
Find somewhere else to live. I would never give up my animals when the solution was in my hands. Stay where you are until you find somewhere you and your pup can go together.
I would keep looking for a place where I could take her. Maybe look for a house to rent.
If you have to find her a home try www.dogster.com you can make her a web page and have pictures and set as adoptable. People can find out a lot of info about her on this website. Also www.petfinder.com and www.craigslist.com then you could direct people to her dogster.com page for more details and pictures.
A dog is suppose to be a lifetime committment. THey are suppose to be part of your family.
The most common excuse for "getting rid of" (I HATE that phrase) a pet is "I'm moving". I would live in my car with my pets rather than "get rid of them".
If you have to re-home your dog I would place an ad, charge something, MAKE SURE SHE IS SPAYED beforehand, check out their references and do a home visit.
Answers:
I am sorry you are faced with this, but I have always said, if I were a renter %26 the landlord wouldn't accept my pets, "I wouldn't accept that person to be my landlord". I'd look else where to move because getting pets are meant to be a committment for as long as they live.
Advertise in the papaer, that way the people can come round to your hosue, view the dog, and you can see if they seem suitable to looking after your dog.
Find somewhere else to live. I would never give up my animals when the solution was in my hands. Stay where you are until you find somewhere you and your pup can go together.
I would keep looking for a place where I could take her. Maybe look for a house to rent.
If you have to find her a home try www.dogster.com you can make her a web page and have pictures and set as adoptable. People can find out a lot of info about her on this website. Also www.petfinder.com and www.craigslist.com then you could direct people to her dogster.com page for more details and pictures.
A dog is suppose to be a lifetime committment. THey are suppose to be part of your family.
The most common excuse for "getting rid of" (I HATE that phrase) a pet is "I'm moving". I would live in my car with my pets rather than "get rid of them".
If you have to re-home your dog I would place an ad, charge something, MAKE SURE SHE IS SPAYED beforehand, check out their references and do a home visit.
Final chack list for new puppy supplies?
ok bringing a puppy home next weekend and i want to make sure ive got everything i need. so list EVERYTHING you would but when bringing a new puppy home
Answers:
This is a list I put together for my puppy clients. Maybe it will help:
http://www.4pawsu.com/puppychecklist.htm...
Congratulations on your new puppy!
This page has more links on vaccinations, socializations and book recommendations:
http://www.4pawsu.com/puppies.htm...
Bowls, chew toys, food, treats, grooming supplies (shampoos, brushes, nail clippers,...), a correct size crate or kennel, leash, collar, harness, dog bed, potty training stuff (puppy pads, or sprays)... that's pretty much it.
kennel
food
bed
bowl (separate water and food bowl)
treats
toys
bones
collar
leash
tag
toy box (keeps the house tidy)
chain (if the dog is a runner or if u dont have a fenced in yard)
time
patience
commitment
brush
groomer (if one is necessary)
vet
shampoo
there is a lot of stuff some psychological some physical. if i think of other stuff i will add it
lots of toys, food, two bowls, newspaper, collar, tags, leash, treats for training, crate, paper towels, cleaner.
Good luck!
When getting a new puppy, you will need:
* Food and water dishes
* A cage or crate and/or dog bed
* A collar and leash
* Nametag
* Toys, including chew toys
* Shampoo and grooming supplies, the type will vary with the breed of puppy
* Health care supplies including ear cleaner, dog toothbrush and toothpaste
* 'Piddle pads' if you will be 'housetraining' your puppy indoors
* Book(s) on puppy health care and behavior
Before getting your puppy, find a veterinarian whom you will be willing to work with for the next 15 years. Make an appointment for your puppy's first exam prior to actually getting the puppy.
at toy
a leash
a color
a food bowl
and a water bowl
dog food
a brush
a cage
dog treats to help them train
mats because its a puppy probaly not potty trained
a dog fence to put up in case you dont want the dogs in that room
a fenced in back yard
and a poop scooper
Most important is a crate
don't buy a dog bed until it is older or it will just get chewed up
durable chew toys like kongs
bowls
brushes
puppy shampoo
good quality food - http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
leash
collar
training books
treats
bitter spray for stuff you don't want him to chew on
identification tag
a vet that you can go to in an emergency
You have a couple of nice lists provided. I'll simply add to them:
A puppy that is at LEAST 8 weeks old
A contract with a reputable breeder
Contact with a good veterinarian
A mentor to help you with training (can be the breeder or a friend)
All the material things are listed above, but the main thing you need is commitment which no one else mentioned. Make sure you are committed to the dogs well being for the next 15 years or so depending on breed. Be willing to take it to the vet as and when needed. Always find the money if he needs help however broke you are. Provide him with love, kindness and most of all make sure he never suffers. Train him. You will both be happier from it. Give him your knowledge of his breed so as you know what to expect from his breed and know when something is not right so as you can work on putting it right.
In return he will be devoted to you all of his days. The material things are nice for him to have, but the only ones he truly needs are food and water.
Enjoy your new puppy. Looks like you are going to be a great owner by making sure you are prepared for his homecoming. Here's to many years of happiness for you and your soon to be best friend
I have two dogs, and with the first one our list was something like this:
1. A food bowl
2. A water bowl
3. A leash (If you have a get a dog that will be large and active you need a a stronger leash. For our forty pound golden retriever mix we got a retractable leash, but you may need a different one for a puppy, because they tend to pull.)
4. Puppy food. Preferably not Iams do to animal testing.
5. An outdoor chain if you want to be able to put the dog out in the morning, before walking it later on.
6. Dog treats for training purposes.
7. Toys, they should be very durable because puppies, especially teething ones, will chew on them until they are in shreds.
8. Some kind of stuffed toy. My dog, Scout, actually sleeps with his.
9. A collar.
10. You need to get your dog all his shots, and licensed (in my state of PA this is vital). My old dog, Charlotte, was running around in a park off leash, and a police officer fined us because she wasn't licensed, and because she wasn't on a leash.
11. Tags. There are three vital ones. One with the dogs name, and your address and phone number in case he gets lost, one that says he has all of his shots, and a third that says that he's licensed.
12. You need to look up a reliable vet in your area in case anything happens.
13. Socialization for your puppy. If she doesn't get socialized she may become food aggressive and may not get along with other dogs. If this happens you will never be able to leave your dog off leash, or just let her alone in your backyard. It is preferable that you get her used to other household animals too, such as cats, so you don't need to be completely tense while you walk it.
Above all, and i know that this sounds cliche, you need patience, and not to wind up like Michael Vick.
Good luck with your puppy.
Answers:
This is a list I put together for my puppy clients. Maybe it will help:
http://www.4pawsu.com/puppychecklist.htm...
Congratulations on your new puppy!
This page has more links on vaccinations, socializations and book recommendations:
http://www.4pawsu.com/puppies.htm...
Bowls, chew toys, food, treats, grooming supplies (shampoos, brushes, nail clippers,...), a correct size crate or kennel, leash, collar, harness, dog bed, potty training stuff (puppy pads, or sprays)... that's pretty much it.
kennel
food
bed
bowl (separate water and food bowl)
treats
toys
bones
collar
leash
tag
toy box (keeps the house tidy)
chain (if the dog is a runner or if u dont have a fenced in yard)
time
patience
commitment
brush
groomer (if one is necessary)
vet
shampoo
there is a lot of stuff some psychological some physical. if i think of other stuff i will add it
lots of toys, food, two bowls, newspaper, collar, tags, leash, treats for training, crate, paper towels, cleaner.
Good luck!
When getting a new puppy, you will need:
* Food and water dishes
* A cage or crate and/or dog bed
* A collar and leash
* Nametag
* Toys, including chew toys
* Shampoo and grooming supplies, the type will vary with the breed of puppy
* Health care supplies including ear cleaner, dog toothbrush and toothpaste
* 'Piddle pads' if you will be 'housetraining' your puppy indoors
* Book(s) on puppy health care and behavior
Before getting your puppy, find a veterinarian whom you will be willing to work with for the next 15 years. Make an appointment for your puppy's first exam prior to actually getting the puppy.
at toy
a leash
a color
a food bowl
and a water bowl
dog food
a brush
a cage
dog treats to help them train
mats because its a puppy probaly not potty trained
a dog fence to put up in case you dont want the dogs in that room
a fenced in back yard
and a poop scooper
Most important is a crate
don't buy a dog bed until it is older or it will just get chewed up
durable chew toys like kongs
bowls
brushes
puppy shampoo
good quality food - http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_...
leash
collar
training books
treats
bitter spray for stuff you don't want him to chew on
identification tag
a vet that you can go to in an emergency
You have a couple of nice lists provided. I'll simply add to them:
A puppy that is at LEAST 8 weeks old
A contract with a reputable breeder
Contact with a good veterinarian
A mentor to help you with training (can be the breeder or a friend)
All the material things are listed above, but the main thing you need is commitment which no one else mentioned. Make sure you are committed to the dogs well being for the next 15 years or so depending on breed. Be willing to take it to the vet as and when needed. Always find the money if he needs help however broke you are. Provide him with love, kindness and most of all make sure he never suffers. Train him. You will both be happier from it. Give him your knowledge of his breed so as you know what to expect from his breed and know when something is not right so as you can work on putting it right.
In return he will be devoted to you all of his days. The material things are nice for him to have, but the only ones he truly needs are food and water.
Enjoy your new puppy. Looks like you are going to be a great owner by making sure you are prepared for his homecoming. Here's to many years of happiness for you and your soon to be best friend
I have two dogs, and with the first one our list was something like this:
1. A food bowl
2. A water bowl
3. A leash (If you have a get a dog that will be large and active you need a a stronger leash. For our forty pound golden retriever mix we got a retractable leash, but you may need a different one for a puppy, because they tend to pull.)
4. Puppy food. Preferably not Iams do to animal testing.
5. An outdoor chain if you want to be able to put the dog out in the morning, before walking it later on.
6. Dog treats for training purposes.
7. Toys, they should be very durable because puppies, especially teething ones, will chew on them until they are in shreds.
8. Some kind of stuffed toy. My dog, Scout, actually sleeps with his.
9. A collar.
10. You need to get your dog all his shots, and licensed (in my state of PA this is vital). My old dog, Charlotte, was running around in a park off leash, and a police officer fined us because she wasn't licensed, and because she wasn't on a leash.
11. Tags. There are three vital ones. One with the dogs name, and your address and phone number in case he gets lost, one that says he has all of his shots, and a third that says that he's licensed.
12. You need to look up a reliable vet in your area in case anything happens.
13. Socialization for your puppy. If she doesn't get socialized she may become food aggressive and may not get along with other dogs. If this happens you will never be able to leave your dog off leash, or just let her alone in your backyard. It is preferable that you get her used to other household animals too, such as cats, so you don't need to be completely tense while you walk it.
Above all, and i know that this sounds cliche, you need patience, and not to wind up like Michael Vick.
Good luck with your puppy.
Filthy doggy teeth-need advice!?
So, yeah I got a new dog, and he is so great, named him cody, and he has his first groomers appt tuesday and he is geting nuetered thursday, well his teeth are dirty but the gums look healthy. Should I just have them brush his teeth at the groomer or get them thoroughly cleaned at the vet? His breath is nasty and he wont eat doggy mints.
Any recommendations? And is $75 reasonable to clean a dog's teeth?
Answers:
If you are getting him nuetered I would get the teeth cleaned at the same time. He will be asleep and you will have everything done at once. Nasty breath usually means the teeth need cleaning. Enjoy your new baby.
Well you just got the dog, so a thorough check up by the vet is a good idea anyhow.. While there, he'll check the dog's teeth and make a recommendation.
If a dog has bad breath there is a reason, either bad teeth, or stomach problems, eating food that isn't good etc.. The vet visit is the best idea.
The vet could easily do it while he's out for his neutering. I'd get the vet to do it unless it looks like something a groomer could get off with a toothbrush. I think $75 is reasonable. Also, for his breath you can get dog biscuits that have parsley in them, and that really helps the bad breath.
You could try brushing them yourself (doggie toothbrushes and toothpaste can be purchased just about anywhere), OR talk to your vet about a special diet--I know that sounds crazy, but a lot of the time the bad breath is caused by tarter build up due to the dog not chewing the food good enough. I suggest Science Diet t/d. It comes in large chunks and in a way forces the dog to chew the piece at the back of their mouth. In less than a week you will see, and smell, a HUGE difference.
$75 bucks for a teeth cleaning is CHEAP!! If I were you I would get the teeth cleaned.
This will help keep his teeth in good shape.
75 sounds like a lot to me. give him a bone or a rawhide... it really helps with teeth AND breath
nylabones makes minty flavored nylabones with little dimples in it, also there's a bone called greenies they're edible and completely safe these will help also try a tooth brush with beef flavored doggie tooth paste!
$75 may be reasonable where you live because it is my understanding they have to be anestisized to do it.so your vet would have to do the job not your groomer.
you can brush your dogs teeth yourself,there is regular dog toothpaste available.no human toothpaste as it is toxic to them.
a good dry dog food and dog bones size appropriate to your pet will also clean his teeth.
his breath is bad because of the tartar.
hope this helps you.
Any recommendations? And is $75 reasonable to clean a dog's teeth?
Answers:
If you are getting him nuetered I would get the teeth cleaned at the same time. He will be asleep and you will have everything done at once. Nasty breath usually means the teeth need cleaning. Enjoy your new baby.
Well you just got the dog, so a thorough check up by the vet is a good idea anyhow.. While there, he'll check the dog's teeth and make a recommendation.
If a dog has bad breath there is a reason, either bad teeth, or stomach problems, eating food that isn't good etc.. The vet visit is the best idea.
The vet could easily do it while he's out for his neutering. I'd get the vet to do it unless it looks like something a groomer could get off with a toothbrush. I think $75 is reasonable. Also, for his breath you can get dog biscuits that have parsley in them, and that really helps the bad breath.
You could try brushing them yourself (doggie toothbrushes and toothpaste can be purchased just about anywhere), OR talk to your vet about a special diet--I know that sounds crazy, but a lot of the time the bad breath is caused by tarter build up due to the dog not chewing the food good enough. I suggest Science Diet t/d. It comes in large chunks and in a way forces the dog to chew the piece at the back of their mouth. In less than a week you will see, and smell, a HUGE difference.
$75 bucks for a teeth cleaning is CHEAP!! If I were you I would get the teeth cleaned.
This will help keep his teeth in good shape.
75 sounds like a lot to me. give him a bone or a rawhide... it really helps with teeth AND breath
nylabones makes minty flavored nylabones with little dimples in it, also there's a bone called greenies they're edible and completely safe these will help also try a tooth brush with beef flavored doggie tooth paste!
$75 may be reasonable where you live because it is my understanding they have to be anestisized to do it.so your vet would have to do the job not your groomer.
you can brush your dogs teeth yourself,there is regular dog toothpaste available.no human toothpaste as it is toxic to them.
a good dry dog food and dog bones size appropriate to your pet will also clean his teeth.
his breath is bad because of the tartar.
hope this helps you.
Fighting Dogs..AHH?
i have two dogs: ones oldish(12), the other is younger. they are both females but the younger one is constantly fighting with the older so weve had to keep them seperate. any suggestions?
Answers:
You, being the alpha should in no way tolerate the fighting. What you say, goes, period. We had the same issue with our young border collie attempting to establish dominance over our older female eskie. Following the instructions of our obedience trainer, I didn't allow this to occur, at all. She was addressed each time she tried. I scruffed her, lifted her off her front feet and shook firm, but gently (just as momma did to her when she was still with her litter as a means of discipline). She soon learned that I was the alpha and didn't approve of her challenging the older female in our home.
Basically, you're the boss and your dogs need to understand and respect that for this to be effective.
Your old dog has had all the attention, run of full territory all
these years, so there is bound to be some friction between them. Once they establish who is in charge, they should be fine. Dogs are pack animals, and need to establish rank in the order so this is all normal.
God bless.
keep them seperated have times for one of them like one comes out for 1 hour and when 1 hour is over put that dog up and bring the other one out
Dogs automatically have a "pack" instinct like in the wild if there is more than one dog in the household. One dog will always try to show dominant behavior such as the younger one to gain some sort of leadership. Depending on how young the younger one is, it may be very hard to break her out of her natural behavior, and I know you probably are not looking forward to finding your younger dog a new home since you may be attatched to her. Keeping them separate may only add his/her aggression toward to your older one when they do get around each other. The best person to give you advice is the pet trainers at Petsmart. Just call the store, and they can give you the best professional advice for free.
I have one male and two female dogs, they play very well together.
What you need to do is pay equal attention to both, dogs get very jealous. If the twelve year old was there first, you must feed him first and establish her as the leader, by allowing her to go outside ahead of the other dog. The fighting is about who is the leader and you can help your older dog by following the above suggestions. To keep them separated is not a practical idea. You need to tell the younger dog when she starts fighting "NO" in a very harsh voice. She will learn, it is not acceptable behavior and stop.
For all the jokes about men and dogs peeing on trees and fighting over territory, female dogs are 100 times worse.
They are actually more likely to fight and damage each other than male dogs.
Once they take a dislike to another female, it's life long. They rarely "change their minds".
Consider re-homing the younger dog. Your first responsibility should be to the old dog, she's been with you longer, and it will be harder for her to find a good home. Also, it's not fair to expect her to adjust to a completely new household and surroundings. She would hate being without you.
the younger one seems not to like the older one you might consider getting another dog and finding the younger one a different home
your dogs are fighting over who is the pack leader. You need to establish dominance over both of them. You need to step up and do some training so make sure you are ready. If you dont assert your dominance, these dogs will never stop fighting. Check out some dog training books or google " dog obedience" and read what comes up.
I would get a good book that covers this issue because there are many things we humans due unintentially that end up promoting and prolonging this battle. There are also many subtle things you can do to establish your self as the leader which can sometimes be helpful to lesson their battle for top position. Pick up all toys and treats as you dont want to give them a reason to battle and toys and treats should be veiwed by your pet as something that belongs to you that you let them have. And last, seriously, take them for walks. It is a great time for you to establish yourself as the leader and for them to bond as a pack!! If the younger dog is not spayed I would suggest that as well. This can sometimes help w/ females as well as males. I hope it works out for you!
Answers:
You, being the alpha should in no way tolerate the fighting. What you say, goes, period. We had the same issue with our young border collie attempting to establish dominance over our older female eskie. Following the instructions of our obedience trainer, I didn't allow this to occur, at all. She was addressed each time she tried. I scruffed her, lifted her off her front feet and shook firm, but gently (just as momma did to her when she was still with her litter as a means of discipline). She soon learned that I was the alpha and didn't approve of her challenging the older female in our home.
Basically, you're the boss and your dogs need to understand and respect that for this to be effective.
Your old dog has had all the attention, run of full territory all
these years, so there is bound to be some friction between them. Once they establish who is in charge, they should be fine. Dogs are pack animals, and need to establish rank in the order so this is all normal.
God bless.
keep them seperated have times for one of them like one comes out for 1 hour and when 1 hour is over put that dog up and bring the other one out
Dogs automatically have a "pack" instinct like in the wild if there is more than one dog in the household. One dog will always try to show dominant behavior such as the younger one to gain some sort of leadership. Depending on how young the younger one is, it may be very hard to break her out of her natural behavior, and I know you probably are not looking forward to finding your younger dog a new home since you may be attatched to her. Keeping them separate may only add his/her aggression toward to your older one when they do get around each other. The best person to give you advice is the pet trainers at Petsmart. Just call the store, and they can give you the best professional advice for free.
I have one male and two female dogs, they play very well together.
What you need to do is pay equal attention to both, dogs get very jealous. If the twelve year old was there first, you must feed him first and establish her as the leader, by allowing her to go outside ahead of the other dog. The fighting is about who is the leader and you can help your older dog by following the above suggestions. To keep them separated is not a practical idea. You need to tell the younger dog when she starts fighting "NO" in a very harsh voice. She will learn, it is not acceptable behavior and stop.
For all the jokes about men and dogs peeing on trees and fighting over territory, female dogs are 100 times worse.
They are actually more likely to fight and damage each other than male dogs.
Once they take a dislike to another female, it's life long. They rarely "change their minds".
Consider re-homing the younger dog. Your first responsibility should be to the old dog, she's been with you longer, and it will be harder for her to find a good home. Also, it's not fair to expect her to adjust to a completely new household and surroundings. She would hate being without you.
the younger one seems not to like the older one you might consider getting another dog and finding the younger one a different home
your dogs are fighting over who is the pack leader. You need to establish dominance over both of them. You need to step up and do some training so make sure you are ready. If you dont assert your dominance, these dogs will never stop fighting. Check out some dog training books or google " dog obedience" and read what comes up.
I would get a good book that covers this issue because there are many things we humans due unintentially that end up promoting and prolonging this battle. There are also many subtle things you can do to establish your self as the leader which can sometimes be helpful to lesson their battle for top position. Pick up all toys and treats as you dont want to give them a reason to battle and toys and treats should be veiwed by your pet as something that belongs to you that you let them have. And last, seriously, take them for walks. It is a great time for you to establish yourself as the leader and for them to bond as a pack!! If the younger dog is not spayed I would suggest that as well. This can sometimes help w/ females as well as males. I hope it works out for you!
Fever & dogs ? ways to tell ?? Post operation?
My dog had an operation 2 days ago for a torn rear ligiment %26 was sent home -- Hes doing great except today he seems to be shaking/ shivering - not constantly on %26 off ...are there any ways to tell if a dog has a temperature / fever other that the back door thermometer test the vets usually do ? I have no problem taking him in if he seems un comfortable - but before I drive him over an 1.5 hours car ride to discover hes also a drama queen I'm trying to disquingsh between the two. Any positive input would be appreciated thank you
Answers:
Shivering is a sign of fever.
Take his temp... yes, back door . normal is 101.5, min is 99.5.. if it is high call your vet w/ the readings. This will save you that 1.5 hr drive, and you will have the answers to his temp when you call and share your concerns w/ the vet too.
Check for any foul smells from the SX site too... this can be signs of infections.
I wish you a quick recovery for your doggie!
The shaking and shivering are more indicative of pain than fever. Call the vet ASAP- there may be complications or you may need pain meds for the dog.
Dogs aren't drama queens - in fact they try and hide pain if they can. He's hurting bad.
You paid for the cruciate surgery... Why would you risk it now by thinking he is being a drama queen?
Take him in or at least call the vet and ask him if this is something you should be seeing... or worried about.
Does he seem warm to the touch??
You can easily take his temp with a household thermometer.
Make sure you use vasaline and insert into his bum about a half an inch. Normal temp is 101-102.
If higher I would definatly rush him off to the Vet.
Shaking and shivering can be related to pain or temp or both.
Good luck!
If you don't want to take him in yet, at least phone the vet and describe his symptoms and see what they think. However, if he's shaking, it's likely because he's in pain. (Taking a dog's temperature really isn't a big deal, at least you'd know for sure.)
And if he's in pain, I'd still be wanting to know what the vet recommended.
Unfortunately no there isn't but if he is shaking I would be concerned. Has he moved at all since the surgery. I know the anisthetics prevent a dog from regulating it's body heat and the shiver for a few hours but not two days later. I would definetly call the vet.
normal tempature is 100-102 if higher take to Vet
With RECTAL THEMOMETER
maybe shacking cuz of pain VETS dont like to give Medication for pain
Answers:
Shivering is a sign of fever.
Take his temp... yes, back door . normal is 101.5, min is 99.5.. if it is high call your vet w/ the readings. This will save you that 1.5 hr drive, and you will have the answers to his temp when you call and share your concerns w/ the vet too.
Check for any foul smells from the SX site too... this can be signs of infections.
I wish you a quick recovery for your doggie!
The shaking and shivering are more indicative of pain than fever. Call the vet ASAP- there may be complications or you may need pain meds for the dog.
Dogs aren't drama queens - in fact they try and hide pain if they can. He's hurting bad.
You paid for the cruciate surgery... Why would you risk it now by thinking he is being a drama queen?
Take him in or at least call the vet and ask him if this is something you should be seeing... or worried about.
Does he seem warm to the touch??
You can easily take his temp with a household thermometer.
Make sure you use vasaline and insert into his bum about a half an inch. Normal temp is 101-102.
If higher I would definatly rush him off to the Vet.
Shaking and shivering can be related to pain or temp or both.
Good luck!
If you don't want to take him in yet, at least phone the vet and describe his symptoms and see what they think. However, if he's shaking, it's likely because he's in pain. (Taking a dog's temperature really isn't a big deal, at least you'd know for sure.)
And if he's in pain, I'd still be wanting to know what the vet recommended.
Unfortunately no there isn't but if he is shaking I would be concerned. Has he moved at all since the surgery. I know the anisthetics prevent a dog from regulating it's body heat and the shiver for a few hours but not two days later. I would definetly call the vet.
normal tempature is 100-102 if higher take to Vet
With RECTAL THEMOMETER
maybe shacking cuz of pain VETS dont like to give Medication for pain
Fencing in our yard?
i am sure that a lot of u on here have fenced in ur yards because u owned dogs. which one is cheaper. a chainlink fence or a big wooden privacy fence. im thinking that a wooden fence would be a lot cheaper than a chainlink but my mother isnt so sure. our dog is really bothersome and poeple cant even walk down the street without him barking. so which fence would be cheaper
this is what i mean by wooden privacy fence
http://www.thebackyarddepot.net/shadowbo...
or maybe even a vinyl fence i am not sure which of these three do u think would be the cheapest
Answers:
chainlink would probobly be cheapest but the wooden privacy fence would help the barking
i had the same question when i was putting my fence but i ended up putting chainlink because they are cheaper.
Personally I hate chinl link fencing. I think it just looks bad!
I really like the wooden one and they make vinyl fences that look just like the wooden ones. I'd go to Home Depot or Lowe's and see which one is cheapest. Then decide which one you like better. Plus the vinyl ones dont need to be painted.
Chain link will probably be the cheapest, but a wood privacy fence looks better and will probably add value to your home.
I would go with the chain link for a few reasons.
1. Wood rots and can be chewed.
2. Chain link is a little more durable and is pretty easy to do yourself. A little muscle and a shovel and you can have a small fence up in a few hours.
Chain link fences are more expensive but you don't have the upkeep (painting). However, since your dog has issues with barking, it wouldn't be any good in your situation anyway, so you'd be better off putting up a wooden privacy fence.
chain is the cheapest, but if you want the dog to not bark at everyone walking by, i would get the wood one. vinyl is the most expensive of your choices.
Cheaper is the chain link, and I won't be rude about this but training is key. No fence will stop or surpress a barking dog. Their hearing and sense of smell will tell them someone or something is near. I give my animals enough credit that they can learn anything I am willing to take the time to teach them. I have two Shepherds and 6 + acres of yard. They know where the boundry lines are and don't cross them with only metal posts showing them there limits NO FENCE AT ALL. They do not bark at anything or anyone outside the boundries. However cross the line be you on two or for legs and they see you as an intruder and will defend their territory with a vengence...TRAINING IS THE ANSWER YOU SEEK
chainlink, but its not as tough as the privacy one.
if you get chainlink you would probably have to replace them in a few years
this is what i mean by wooden privacy fence
http://www.thebackyarddepot.net/shadowbo...
or maybe even a vinyl fence i am not sure which of these three do u think would be the cheapest
Answers:
chainlink would probobly be cheapest but the wooden privacy fence would help the barking
i had the same question when i was putting my fence but i ended up putting chainlink because they are cheaper.
Personally I hate chinl link fencing. I think it just looks bad!
I really like the wooden one and they make vinyl fences that look just like the wooden ones. I'd go to Home Depot or Lowe's and see which one is cheapest. Then decide which one you like better. Plus the vinyl ones dont need to be painted.
Chain link will probably be the cheapest, but a wood privacy fence looks better and will probably add value to your home.
I would go with the chain link for a few reasons.
1. Wood rots and can be chewed.
2. Chain link is a little more durable and is pretty easy to do yourself. A little muscle and a shovel and you can have a small fence up in a few hours.
Chain link fences are more expensive but you don't have the upkeep (painting). However, since your dog has issues with barking, it wouldn't be any good in your situation anyway, so you'd be better off putting up a wooden privacy fence.
chain is the cheapest, but if you want the dog to not bark at everyone walking by, i would get the wood one. vinyl is the most expensive of your choices.
Cheaper is the chain link, and I won't be rude about this but training is key. No fence will stop or surpress a barking dog. Their hearing and sense of smell will tell them someone or something is near. I give my animals enough credit that they can learn anything I am willing to take the time to teach them. I have two Shepherds and 6 + acres of yard. They know where the boundry lines are and don't cross them with only metal posts showing them there limits NO FENCE AT ALL. They do not bark at anything or anyone outside the boundries. However cross the line be you on two or for legs and they see you as an intruder and will defend their territory with a vengence...TRAINING IS THE ANSWER YOU SEEK
chainlink, but its not as tough as the privacy one.
if you get chainlink you would probably have to replace them in a few years
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