My Papillon, Louie, has been sick for the past 4 days and the symptoms that he has been demonstrating are characteristic of either parasites or Parvo. I know it sounds crazy but I'm praying that it's just parasites.
He's going to the vet this morning, please pray for him.
Answers:
I know how it feels when your pet is ill and you hope it is nothing serious. A pet is like part of the family to you and it gives you great joy and companionship to have around. I hope and pray that your dog will get better and it is nothing to serious. I just went through something similar with my cat last year and now what it is like. think good thoughts for your dog and I will to.
It doesn't sound crazy at all. Our animals become part of our families. I would be more than happy to pray for him. Parvo is one of the worst viruses for a dog. If it has a strong smell and he is vomiting and has diareah, then it could be. This smell is unlike any other. Like if you have ever smelled something dead, you KNOW what it is without a doubt. It has a VERY distinct smell to it. I will keep Louie in my prayers. God Bless.
Louie seems to be a very dear friend to you. Whatever needs to be done will be done thanks to a so sensitive owner like you.
I wish best of luck.
why wait til 2morow,im sure parvo would of killed him by now,plus that can pass on to other animals if they havent had their injections...il pray for your sweet louie,that he feels better asap..dont wait to see vets as our dear pets cant talk and they dont complain,im sure your a wonderful owner,big hug for you too.
How old is your pup? Was it exposed to any other dog with parvo? I was a vet tech for many years. Parvo is a terrible disease, but it is also a disease that mainly attacks puppies.
I don't want to put any more fear in you, or upset you any more than I am certain you are, but antifreeze poisoning presents much like parvo - lethargy, diarrhea, lack of appetite, etc. This is much more common than parvo. Do you have any neighbors that are mad at your dog?
I am keeping you in my thoughts today. I love animals, and hate to hear of anyone going through something like this.
My thoughts and prayers are with you. Good luck and keep us posted.
Is he vaccinated against parvo? I can tell you that after 4 days of illness most dogs with parvo are near death. If he isn't that bad, it is probably something else.
Wishing you both all the best!!
Friday, July 31, 2009
For all the people that knows about dogs. its an emergency please.?
ok i have a black 6 month old lab. and one day i found a big gaping hole on his left ear. i thought it was just a scratch so i js a scratch so i put some alcohol on it. then the next day i see the same gaping hole with blood oozing at his right ear. so i then i started getting worried. but i decided to see what happens the next day. the next day i see the flesh on his right ear dug up more. then one of my friends told there might be bugs that eat on flesh. is this true? what is causing this. please hes like my little brother
Answers:
GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GET THE DOG TO THE VET!!!
You should be afraid! The poor thing is hurt, and you aren't helping him!!
VET!!NOW!!
Someone get this please!!
I just can't repeat it, yet again.
don't wait any longer. take him to a vet. even if it's not bugs it could be an infection or something serious
Never put alcohol on an open, bleeding wound. Can you imagine just how badly that hurt your dog? Your dog could have a warble, or other insect infestation, and MUST go to a vet.
yes it is an emergency!! get that dog to the vet now--like you should have when you first noticed it
Fleshy gaping hole=vet!!
He is probably the one that is making it worse. And who knows what caused it or what type of infection is going on. If you let it get infected enough maggots might get to it and make it worse. The sooner you take him to the vet the better off you and he will be.
Ok, my Border Collie had the same thing going on with his leg. I don't think it is a bug. She gave me a spray on solution for him. You need to get him to the vet IMMEDIATELY! This may not be the same thing but it sounds like it. It may get worse and you need to get him some help.
omg! it is a good guess that there is a flesh eating bug on your dog. but it also could be a very bad infection. you need to take the dog to the vet RIGHT NOW! if there is a bug or a really bad infection in can go further into the head and do much more serious damage. If you leave things alone it will get worse no matter what. your dog needs medical help right away.
he sounds like he needs to be taken to a vet, they might need to take a skin graph and run some tests on it, please call your vet and make a appointment before it gets worse
If could be an infection, or a parasite who does in fact eat the flesh. Maggots is a possiblity.
Please; do not let this wait any longer. The wound can become severely infected, and could potentially cause the dog to go deaf. Call a real vet (not a Yahoo one) and ask what you should do, then please; take it either to a veternarian clinic or animal hospital. This is something that shouldn't be left alone.
If I knew your area, I could give you some numbers to call. Look online or in the phone books for some numbers.
Good luck with your dog, and let us know what happens. =)
he might have scratched it into a hole down to the flesh. before anything, take him to a vet so u can at least know wut's wrong first be4 u try to treat it. i'm soo sorry to hear this. good luck, i hope he'll be ok.
He could be being attacked by flies or meat-eating bees, or even rats. Without more information, it's difficult to tell. Or he could be doing the damage himself by energetically scratching at his ears because he has ear infections.
We suggest getting your dog checked by a vet to see if he has ear infections, or if there is inidcation of "biting", and to get his ears properly cared for.
It's also a good idea to keep the dog indoors until his ears are healed.
Go to the vet. This could be a hematoma but it could easily get infected and sounds like it needs to be treated. Dogs will scratch any irritation on their ears making the problem worse. If the flesh is falling off it is most definately a serios infection under the skin. At this point I think it needs to be checked out.
Defintely have him checked out. He could have severly hurt himself when you weren't looking and it's progressing as he picks at it or he could have allergies. I know every summer my dog gets really bad alergies and he goes at his ears till he looses all the hair in that area and he bleeds frantically. The symptoms you described can lead to many presumptions including that which your friend gave you however, only a licensed veterenarian can truely diagnose your dog and help him. I urge you to have him checked. It could be small, it could be a reaccuring issue you need to keep an eye on in the future or a bad infection.
Good Luck
yes all dogs have a bug on there skin called a mite and there might be to many mites on its body which is a skin diease called demodex
good grief go to the vet!
OH FOR GOD SAKE, HELLO, GO TO THE VET, WHY ARE YOU WAITING SOOOOOOOOO LONG.
VET NURSE
GO STRAIGHT TO THE VET! Your dog could have a serious problem, and yes it could be a flesh-eating parasite such as maggots or a warble! You should have taken him to the ermegency vet as soon as you saw an open wound on him. And you should never put alcohol on an open wound, it burns like crazy. Go! Go right now to your vet and see what is up with your dog!
There is only ONE simple answer you have said yourself this is an emergency and an emergency should be taken care of by the vet.
It should not have been left to go this far so go now.
It could be a number of things. A common problem are ear mites and he is scratching it because they itch really bad. Is he around other dogs? It could be rough housing or fighting? If it's mites he needs medicine to kill the bugs and mites are contagious. It could spread to other pets. If it is a wound he may need medicine anyway. It's better to find out early so whatever his cause is so it doesn't worsen physically and financially. If money is a problem often the local human society has a clinic that offers vet services at reduced cost. Often times you can call a vet and talk to a vet tech or get questions to the vet. They will ask more specific questions and often tell you if it sound serious enough to come in or even if he needs to come in urgently or offer a remedy for something minor. They can also tell you if it's a bad season for a particular parasite because often times they will have seen a number of the same kind of case from other pet owners. If his ears smell yeasty it could be a yeast infection which can cause itching and pain. This is also very common with particular breeds. One of mine get this from time to time. It's also important because you don't want whatever the problem is to effect his hearing done the road so to speak. I hope this helps.
Of course it's an emergency. Take him to the vet!
This could be caused by fly bites. Check with your vet. If it is, then there is cream/paste/lotion that can be applied to help heal the wounds and prevent future bites.
Get the dog to the damn vet, would ya? What are you thinking?
-MM
You say Emergency. I say Take him to the vet. Don't piss around on here. He can get a serious infection if not properly treated. In the time it took you to type your question and wait for answers you could have already called the vet and made an appointment or been on your way to the vet office. Sheesh....
Well if you had a gaping wound what would you do? You did more harm than good with the alcohol. Not to be mean but that was dumb.
Your little brother needs medical attention right now. Yes fly's can lay eggs in the cut and then they become maggots, they will feed on the dogs flesh! Now here is a credit card company that will if you qualify allow your to get medical treatment for your puppy.
Care Credit
1-800-365-8295. I hope your of age other else this will not help you one bit. I suggest your find the money tonight to get the dog to the vets right now. your puppy can lose his ear flap and he can be sever pain and can be infected already!
You have already waited too long. Don't make that mistake any longer. Get the pup to the vets.
If he has a cut that's infected, flys will be attracted to it and they will lay eggs. Maggots will hatch and start eating the flesh. I've seen a dog eaten by maggots...it's not a pretty sight. If outside a lot, keep him inside and make sure you make a visit to your vet so he can diagnose the problem and fix it.
Answers:
GET OFF THE COMPUTER AND GET THE DOG TO THE VET!!!
You should be afraid! The poor thing is hurt, and you aren't helping him!!
VET!!NOW!!
Someone get this please!!
I just can't repeat it, yet again.
don't wait any longer. take him to a vet. even if it's not bugs it could be an infection or something serious
Never put alcohol on an open, bleeding wound. Can you imagine just how badly that hurt your dog? Your dog could have a warble, or other insect infestation, and MUST go to a vet.
yes it is an emergency!! get that dog to the vet now--like you should have when you first noticed it
Fleshy gaping hole=vet!!
He is probably the one that is making it worse. And who knows what caused it or what type of infection is going on. If you let it get infected enough maggots might get to it and make it worse. The sooner you take him to the vet the better off you and he will be.
Ok, my Border Collie had the same thing going on with his leg. I don't think it is a bug. She gave me a spray on solution for him. You need to get him to the vet IMMEDIATELY! This may not be the same thing but it sounds like it. It may get worse and you need to get him some help.
omg! it is a good guess that there is a flesh eating bug on your dog. but it also could be a very bad infection. you need to take the dog to the vet RIGHT NOW! if there is a bug or a really bad infection in can go further into the head and do much more serious damage. If you leave things alone it will get worse no matter what. your dog needs medical help right away.
he sounds like he needs to be taken to a vet, they might need to take a skin graph and run some tests on it, please call your vet and make a appointment before it gets worse
If could be an infection, or a parasite who does in fact eat the flesh. Maggots is a possiblity.
Please; do not let this wait any longer. The wound can become severely infected, and could potentially cause the dog to go deaf. Call a real vet (not a Yahoo one) and ask what you should do, then please; take it either to a veternarian clinic or animal hospital. This is something that shouldn't be left alone.
If I knew your area, I could give you some numbers to call. Look online or in the phone books for some numbers.
Good luck with your dog, and let us know what happens. =)
he might have scratched it into a hole down to the flesh. before anything, take him to a vet so u can at least know wut's wrong first be4 u try to treat it. i'm soo sorry to hear this. good luck, i hope he'll be ok.
He could be being attacked by flies or meat-eating bees, or even rats. Without more information, it's difficult to tell. Or he could be doing the damage himself by energetically scratching at his ears because he has ear infections.
We suggest getting your dog checked by a vet to see if he has ear infections, or if there is inidcation of "biting", and to get his ears properly cared for.
It's also a good idea to keep the dog indoors until his ears are healed.
Go to the vet. This could be a hematoma but it could easily get infected and sounds like it needs to be treated. Dogs will scratch any irritation on their ears making the problem worse. If the flesh is falling off it is most definately a serios infection under the skin. At this point I think it needs to be checked out.
Defintely have him checked out. He could have severly hurt himself when you weren't looking and it's progressing as he picks at it or he could have allergies. I know every summer my dog gets really bad alergies and he goes at his ears till he looses all the hair in that area and he bleeds frantically. The symptoms you described can lead to many presumptions including that which your friend gave you however, only a licensed veterenarian can truely diagnose your dog and help him. I urge you to have him checked. It could be small, it could be a reaccuring issue you need to keep an eye on in the future or a bad infection.
Good Luck
yes all dogs have a bug on there skin called a mite and there might be to many mites on its body which is a skin diease called demodex
good grief go to the vet!
OH FOR GOD SAKE, HELLO, GO TO THE VET, WHY ARE YOU WAITING SOOOOOOOOO LONG.
VET NURSE
GO STRAIGHT TO THE VET! Your dog could have a serious problem, and yes it could be a flesh-eating parasite such as maggots or a warble! You should have taken him to the ermegency vet as soon as you saw an open wound on him. And you should never put alcohol on an open wound, it burns like crazy. Go! Go right now to your vet and see what is up with your dog!
There is only ONE simple answer you have said yourself this is an emergency and an emergency should be taken care of by the vet.
It should not have been left to go this far so go now.
It could be a number of things. A common problem are ear mites and he is scratching it because they itch really bad. Is he around other dogs? It could be rough housing or fighting? If it's mites he needs medicine to kill the bugs and mites are contagious. It could spread to other pets. If it is a wound he may need medicine anyway. It's better to find out early so whatever his cause is so it doesn't worsen physically and financially. If money is a problem often the local human society has a clinic that offers vet services at reduced cost. Often times you can call a vet and talk to a vet tech or get questions to the vet. They will ask more specific questions and often tell you if it sound serious enough to come in or even if he needs to come in urgently or offer a remedy for something minor. They can also tell you if it's a bad season for a particular parasite because often times they will have seen a number of the same kind of case from other pet owners. If his ears smell yeasty it could be a yeast infection which can cause itching and pain. This is also very common with particular breeds. One of mine get this from time to time. It's also important because you don't want whatever the problem is to effect his hearing done the road so to speak. I hope this helps.
Of course it's an emergency. Take him to the vet!
This could be caused by fly bites. Check with your vet. If it is, then there is cream/paste/lotion that can be applied to help heal the wounds and prevent future bites.
Get the dog to the damn vet, would ya? What are you thinking?
-MM
You say Emergency. I say Take him to the vet. Don't piss around on here. He can get a serious infection if not properly treated. In the time it took you to type your question and wait for answers you could have already called the vet and made an appointment or been on your way to the vet office. Sheesh....
Well if you had a gaping wound what would you do? You did more harm than good with the alcohol. Not to be mean but that was dumb.
Your little brother needs medical attention right now. Yes fly's can lay eggs in the cut and then they become maggots, they will feed on the dogs flesh! Now here is a credit card company that will if you qualify allow your to get medical treatment for your puppy.
Care Credit
1-800-365-8295. I hope your of age other else this will not help you one bit. I suggest your find the money tonight to get the dog to the vets right now. your puppy can lose his ear flap and he can be sever pain and can be infected already!
You have already waited too long. Don't make that mistake any longer. Get the pup to the vets.
If he has a cut that's infected, flys will be attracted to it and they will lay eggs. Maggots will hatch and start eating the flesh. I've seen a dog eaten by maggots...it's not a pretty sight. If outside a lot, keep him inside and make sure you make a visit to your vet so he can diagnose the problem and fix it.
For all of you with Labradors?
I have recently moved to a house (from a flat) and my husband and I decided to finally get a dog. He is crazy for labs and we are getting black lab puppy in 5 days. My concern is can u train a labrador retreiver to be a watch dog? I've heard and read that you can't but I would like to hear your personal experience with this breed. My husband works in shifts so sometimes I stay alone in house at night. I'm not in a flat anymore so I would like to have a dog that will alarm the neighborhood if someone tries to break in.
Answers:
You can train any dog to be a watch dog, it will take a little more time with a Lab though. You don't really need a mean dog - you just need a loud dog. As long as he barks at anyone who comes to call you should be fine. A bugler will not want to go to a house where there is a dog making his presence known. Buglers need quite to get away with their theft.
Almost any dog will alarm you that someone is on there turf. Labs will do that. They will bark if it is a stranger. If it is someone they know they may only bark once or twice, then they will go get a toy to show the person.
Labs are great.
Make sure you take your puppy to puppy kindergarten for bonding, and check out this great puppy resource. It was a life saver with our puppy!
He wont be a good guard dog, but he will serve as a watch dog most likely.
Keep him trained, be loving, etc. Just treat him properly.
Most dogs will naturally bark a greeting when someone enters the home or knocks on the door, or just gets close enough. Encorage this, but teach him to stop it once he's acknowledged--reward him for it and he'll keep doing it.
Almost any dog will bark when someone comes over knocking on the door, labs too. If that is all you are looking for, you have made a good choice. If you need more, however, then you need to look at other breeds.
I have had two labs and now am getting a third next wk, an eight wk old puppy, My black lab I have now, by the way all have been females, they love people, when strangers come in she brings them the little cat toys in her mouth, I know that when push comes to shove, they will protect you, I have seen her when i feel uncomfortable in situations, react and sit right by me, I also had a disabled husband with M.S. and my yellow lab that has since passed on was very protective with him, she would sit by his wheelchair. I hear labs dont start fights, but they dont walk away, I always had female labs, i dont know about the males, but I think they are great companions, and loyal,
Def, yes! I have a choc Lab and he is def a great watchdog. He is also well obed trained and very social, a shy dog is not a good watchdog. There have been many Police dogs that were Labs and several Schutzhund titled ones. A Schutzhund titled dog has to do obed., protection and tracking so is a well rounded well trained dog. Never encourage a young pup to bark tho, it creates problems. In an interview with muggers and thieves they told the people that they avoid anyone walking a well trained large dog since they do not know if the dog is trained to bite. So take him to obed. school when young and when he is 10 mos or so train him to bark on command. The command doesn't have to be oral either you can use one you could use while walking the dog on leash such as an ear pinch, or tap on the head. Actually very few dogs will not bark at night esp if someone tries to break in. I've never owned one.
Personal Exp. yes you can train labs as watch dogs, mine doesn't bite or any thing but when some one she doesn't know even tries to go up our stairs( our house is on a second floor) she barks enough to wake the neighbors.
Yes actually you can. I have a black lab, shadow and when my grandfather was renovating his home, and had no real lock protection, he "borrowed" Shadow to watch him, and alert him, because he's deaf in one ear and if someone was to break in, he would be unable to hear it from the upstairs.
Shadow is a very sweet dog but he was great protection. Every noise he heard from outside he would get up, walk through the doggie door, and if he saw anything unusual, the whole neighborhood was awoken. Once their actually was an intruder. and Shadow was VERY helpful... need i say more?
Haha
Good luck...
yes, i owned a black lab(though she was half german sheperd) and she would always stop unknown people dead in their tracks until we showed up to assess the situation. Sometimes even after we told her they could step onto the property, she would refuse to grant them clearance! Although she was definately more "prejudiced" against men than women, we were never robbed while we had her!
She had no actual guard training given her at all!
Answers:
You can train any dog to be a watch dog, it will take a little more time with a Lab though. You don't really need a mean dog - you just need a loud dog. As long as he barks at anyone who comes to call you should be fine. A bugler will not want to go to a house where there is a dog making his presence known. Buglers need quite to get away with their theft.
Almost any dog will alarm you that someone is on there turf. Labs will do that. They will bark if it is a stranger. If it is someone they know they may only bark once or twice, then they will go get a toy to show the person.
Labs are great.
Make sure you take your puppy to puppy kindergarten for bonding, and check out this great puppy resource. It was a life saver with our puppy!
He wont be a good guard dog, but he will serve as a watch dog most likely.
Keep him trained, be loving, etc. Just treat him properly.
Most dogs will naturally bark a greeting when someone enters the home or knocks on the door, or just gets close enough. Encorage this, but teach him to stop it once he's acknowledged--reward him for it and he'll keep doing it.
Almost any dog will bark when someone comes over knocking on the door, labs too. If that is all you are looking for, you have made a good choice. If you need more, however, then you need to look at other breeds.
I have had two labs and now am getting a third next wk, an eight wk old puppy, My black lab I have now, by the way all have been females, they love people, when strangers come in she brings them the little cat toys in her mouth, I know that when push comes to shove, they will protect you, I have seen her when i feel uncomfortable in situations, react and sit right by me, I also had a disabled husband with M.S. and my yellow lab that has since passed on was very protective with him, she would sit by his wheelchair. I hear labs dont start fights, but they dont walk away, I always had female labs, i dont know about the males, but I think they are great companions, and loyal,
Def, yes! I have a choc Lab and he is def a great watchdog. He is also well obed trained and very social, a shy dog is not a good watchdog. There have been many Police dogs that were Labs and several Schutzhund titled ones. A Schutzhund titled dog has to do obed., protection and tracking so is a well rounded well trained dog. Never encourage a young pup to bark tho, it creates problems. In an interview with muggers and thieves they told the people that they avoid anyone walking a well trained large dog since they do not know if the dog is trained to bite. So take him to obed. school when young and when he is 10 mos or so train him to bark on command. The command doesn't have to be oral either you can use one you could use while walking the dog on leash such as an ear pinch, or tap on the head. Actually very few dogs will not bark at night esp if someone tries to break in. I've never owned one.
Personal Exp. yes you can train labs as watch dogs, mine doesn't bite or any thing but when some one she doesn't know even tries to go up our stairs( our house is on a second floor) she barks enough to wake the neighbors.
Yes actually you can. I have a black lab, shadow and when my grandfather was renovating his home, and had no real lock protection, he "borrowed" Shadow to watch him, and alert him, because he's deaf in one ear and if someone was to break in, he would be unable to hear it from the upstairs.
Shadow is a very sweet dog but he was great protection. Every noise he heard from outside he would get up, walk through the doggie door, and if he saw anything unusual, the whole neighborhood was awoken. Once their actually was an intruder. and Shadow was VERY helpful... need i say more?
Haha
Good luck...
yes, i owned a black lab(though she was half german sheperd) and she would always stop unknown people dead in their tracks until we showed up to assess the situation. Sometimes even after we told her they could step onto the property, she would refuse to grant them clearance! Although she was definately more "prejudiced" against men than women, we were never robbed while we had her!
She had no actual guard training given her at all!
Food question?
im switching to a natural dog food i have 16 pound bag left of purina can i finish it before i switch?
Answers:
yes you can finish.when you start to change food, mix it with the purina gradually starting him on the natural food so it doesnt upset his stomach
gradually add some of it to his new food
U have to be careful just switching a dog's food. I agree with the guy that answered first..slowly add the new food to the already existing food. Dont switch up the dog's food anymore though. You can hurt ur dog by doing that.
yes
You need to gradually mix the old and new food over several days, because it can upset your dog's stomach and will give him the splatters.gross.ya don't want that!
Answers:
yes you can finish.when you start to change food, mix it with the purina gradually starting him on the natural food so it doesnt upset his stomach
gradually add some of it to his new food
U have to be careful just switching a dog's food. I agree with the guy that answered first..slowly add the new food to the already existing food. Dont switch up the dog's food anymore though. You can hurt ur dog by doing that.
yes
You need to gradually mix the old and new food over several days, because it can upset your dog's stomach and will give him the splatters.gross.ya don't want that!
Food for my doggy?
Is it okay to feed my dog the yellow part of the egg after it's been hard boiled? It's all protein anyway right?
Answers:
sure in the wild they eat whatever they can get he be glad to have one and it will help with his coat
yes it's fine as long as it is an occasional treat- whole raw egg would be better though.
** I usually just crack it on top of my dog's food but I know that some people feed the shell too.
I have put it in a link to a feeding guide for you :)
Yes it is perfectly fine to give dogs raw eggs, although they shouldn't have them more then once or twice a week.
It will not cause a deficiency of any kind if you feed the entire egg (white %26 yolk) and it will not make your dog sick.
Egg is good for dogs though its better when it's raw. I give my dog egg twice a week and raw meat and it helps a lot with the coat, energy and muscle amounts. Giving them raw food instead of cooked dry or wet dog food is so much healthier and has more benefits. Its called feeding your dog barf. Bones and raw food. (other things stand for it to) Look up some information on BARF and you'll see it's really good for your dog but on your egg question. Yeah that's a good every now and then treat.
My dogs get whole raw eggs, shell and all a few times a week. I either put them in a bowl by themselves or take them outside and let the dogs have fun cracking them open.
The shell are a good sources of calcium.
No, don't give him a whole raw egg. The yellow part of the egg has a lot of cholesterol so be conservative with how often you give your dog this.
it can make ur puppy sick if it is under a year old so i dont recomend it
Answers:
sure in the wild they eat whatever they can get he be glad to have one and it will help with his coat
yes it's fine as long as it is an occasional treat- whole raw egg would be better though.
** I usually just crack it on top of my dog's food but I know that some people feed the shell too.
I have put it in a link to a feeding guide for you :)
Yes it is perfectly fine to give dogs raw eggs, although they shouldn't have them more then once or twice a week.
It will not cause a deficiency of any kind if you feed the entire egg (white %26 yolk) and it will not make your dog sick.
Egg is good for dogs though its better when it's raw. I give my dog egg twice a week and raw meat and it helps a lot with the coat, energy and muscle amounts. Giving them raw food instead of cooked dry or wet dog food is so much healthier and has more benefits. Its called feeding your dog barf. Bones and raw food. (other things stand for it to) Look up some information on BARF and you'll see it's really good for your dog but on your egg question. Yeah that's a good every now and then treat.
My dogs get whole raw eggs, shell and all a few times a week. I either put them in a bowl by themselves or take them outside and let the dogs have fun cracking them open.
The shell are a good sources of calcium.
No, don't give him a whole raw egg. The yellow part of the egg has a lot of cholesterol so be conservative with how often you give your dog this.
it can make ur puppy sick if it is under a year old so i dont recomend it
Food aggression?
I have an 11 month old black lab mix...We got her from the Humane Society about 3 months ago. We haven't had too many problems with her (besides the begging at the table, eating out of the garbage, she's pooped on the floor numerous times within minutes of coming in the house after 15-45 minutes walks...) All that out of the way, now we have a new problem.she has been awesome when it comes to her food up until this past week. She just got out of her first heat and now she's a different dog it seems. We don't know what she is mixed with but it is starting to make us nervous. We have 3 boys and it seems that all of a sudden she's barking and growling at the kids if they walk by her when she's got her chew bones or rawhide chews...she's even tried nipping at my youngest (4 yr old). What is going on with her? Is her personality changing completely or is this just a stage? We can't have her biting one of the kids...know what I mean? I'm starting to get nervous...
Answers:
I would spay her right away if you plan to keep her. That would help a little to calm her. And you have to stop this problem at all costs. It is a territorial dominance issue. She owns the food, she owns the toy, etc, so she is telling the less dominant members of her pack to stay away. It's dangerous.
Temperament is a genetic trait. Because she is reaching maturity, her temperament is showing, and it is dominant. Some people try to train it out by making the children dominant members of the pack, letting them go through doors first, have them eat in front of her and feed her, and even by pushing the dog to the ground, rolling it over and growling at it. But training will never change the personality only control it. Your dog will always be prone to this behavior, but might possibly be trained to control it.
Lots of people with pits swear they are sweet until they turn 3 or so and start showing their adult temperament. It's just a genetic issue. It can't be changed only trained.
All that said, if it were my dog, I would get rid of it. You have to put the child first. If you do keep the dog then spay it. That might help a little. And get it trained. That might help a little too. But whatever you do, it will always have that instinct in the back of it's genes. So be aware of that to keep your children protected.
I've heard of animal therapy...first take her to the vet.
I dearly LOVE my dogs and my children are grown and out of the house, but NEVER NEVER NEVER would I take a chance with a child against a dog. The dog would have to have a new home for the most obvious reason!
Resource guarding is the term for what you are describing and it is a serious behavioral problem and you are right to be concerned. First, get her spayed. I'm surprised the humane society released her to you without having this done. It does help with temperament and it prevents many reproductive diseases, let alone accidental pregnancies. Then start working hard on training - with a professional trainer, not just an obedience class. Call the humane society or your vet and get a recommendation. Also - do not reward any begging and don't give her any human food. Make her work for anything you give her. Before you give her her food, make her sit first. Before you give her affection, make her sit. Until the problem is solved, supervise her closely when around the boys and make sure none of the boys are present during feeding time. If she does not respond quickly, I would take her back to the humane society and choose another dog better suited to your family.
How did you get an intact female from the Humane Society?? Did you not agree to have her spayed? Have her spayed.. Correct the behaviour.. She is 11 mos old, it's likely a stage, especially after being in season.. Training classes and spay her.
This is typical of dogs that have been deprived of food and is normally an indicator that they were neglected. Most likely she will not hurt anyone but you have to let her know this is not acceptable behavior. When you give her a bone put the leash on her first and start by sitting next to her while she chews the bone. If she growls tug up on the leash and take the bone away. Once she is calm give it back. If she begins to chew it calmly praise her. Next step pet her while she is chewing and follow the same steps. Finally, you should be able to take her toy away and give it back to her. This shows the dog that the toy will not be taken away permanantly. This is a good time to teach the dog the "out" command. When it comes to feeding do not feed a hyper dog. Calmly hold the food out of the dogs reach until the dog is calm and then feed. The "sit" command comes in very handy here. "stay" works extra well. This training teaches the dog that growling behavior is not tolorable, that you are the dominant member and not the dog, and alleviates the fear that another toy or meal will not come. The Humane Society should have spayed her but if not it wouldn't hurt to get her spayed.
how you got a dog from the humane society with out her being fixed is new to me, but if she is just coming out of heat she is just like the rest of us women when we PMS, but you really need to take her to obedience school and get her trained. I have a pit bull when she was pup she started on the growling and biting stage I would pop her on her nose and say no bites kisses, she now kisses and shares all her toys and food with anyone who wants to play with her. I would advise taking her and having her fixed, when you do that it should mellow her out some. But a major issue is try the training also. Your local petsmart have wonderful training sessions that the whole family can get involved with. You don't want her thinking that biting the kids is okay. You want to lets say bite that in the butt quick. Any dog bite from any size dog can turn dangerous. Please don't just give up on her try to find a solution to it be the vet or a training course. She will thank you in the end and dogs make the most wonderful friends no matter the breed. So i wouldn't worry about what she is mixed with and work on your issue of trying to fix the problem.
Some things that helped with my dog are,
obedience classes,
have her spayed.
One thing that really helped was feed her her kibble by hand. This might take a while but with every meal hand feed her for a while, and after she is good with you have your boys do the same. Also don't leave her food out all the time just have set meal times then remove what she has not ate. This way she gets to know you are the provider of the food and hence you are the top dog - not to be bitten.
If she does snap or bite you or anyone quickly tap her nose, hard enough that she don't like it. Don't beat her or slap her else where. This is how the alpha wolf teaches the lower wolf not to snap at him.
Other people will probably have some more ideas but this is what worked with my dog who used to snap a lot. Now he is well behaved and calm. Also mine was abused before I got him so I would never slap him anywhere except tap his nose. It worked and now he trusts me.
have her fixed the take her to doggy school or call a behaviorist and see whats going on since she just came out of her first heat her personality might change so like i stated before get her fixed and working with her (witch ever way you choose) you could get to the point where your kids can give her bones good luck
Answers:
I would spay her right away if you plan to keep her. That would help a little to calm her. And you have to stop this problem at all costs. It is a territorial dominance issue. She owns the food, she owns the toy, etc, so she is telling the less dominant members of her pack to stay away. It's dangerous.
Temperament is a genetic trait. Because she is reaching maturity, her temperament is showing, and it is dominant. Some people try to train it out by making the children dominant members of the pack, letting them go through doors first, have them eat in front of her and feed her, and even by pushing the dog to the ground, rolling it over and growling at it. But training will never change the personality only control it. Your dog will always be prone to this behavior, but might possibly be trained to control it.
Lots of people with pits swear they are sweet until they turn 3 or so and start showing their adult temperament. It's just a genetic issue. It can't be changed only trained.
All that said, if it were my dog, I would get rid of it. You have to put the child first. If you do keep the dog then spay it. That might help a little. And get it trained. That might help a little too. But whatever you do, it will always have that instinct in the back of it's genes. So be aware of that to keep your children protected.
I've heard of animal therapy...first take her to the vet.
I dearly LOVE my dogs and my children are grown and out of the house, but NEVER NEVER NEVER would I take a chance with a child against a dog. The dog would have to have a new home for the most obvious reason!
Resource guarding is the term for what you are describing and it is a serious behavioral problem and you are right to be concerned. First, get her spayed. I'm surprised the humane society released her to you without having this done. It does help with temperament and it prevents many reproductive diseases, let alone accidental pregnancies. Then start working hard on training - with a professional trainer, not just an obedience class. Call the humane society or your vet and get a recommendation. Also - do not reward any begging and don't give her any human food. Make her work for anything you give her. Before you give her her food, make her sit first. Before you give her affection, make her sit. Until the problem is solved, supervise her closely when around the boys and make sure none of the boys are present during feeding time. If she does not respond quickly, I would take her back to the humane society and choose another dog better suited to your family.
How did you get an intact female from the Humane Society?? Did you not agree to have her spayed? Have her spayed.. Correct the behaviour.. She is 11 mos old, it's likely a stage, especially after being in season.. Training classes and spay her.
This is typical of dogs that have been deprived of food and is normally an indicator that they were neglected. Most likely she will not hurt anyone but you have to let her know this is not acceptable behavior. When you give her a bone put the leash on her first and start by sitting next to her while she chews the bone. If she growls tug up on the leash and take the bone away. Once she is calm give it back. If she begins to chew it calmly praise her. Next step pet her while she is chewing and follow the same steps. Finally, you should be able to take her toy away and give it back to her. This shows the dog that the toy will not be taken away permanantly. This is a good time to teach the dog the "out" command. When it comes to feeding do not feed a hyper dog. Calmly hold the food out of the dogs reach until the dog is calm and then feed. The "sit" command comes in very handy here. "stay" works extra well. This training teaches the dog that growling behavior is not tolorable, that you are the dominant member and not the dog, and alleviates the fear that another toy or meal will not come. The Humane Society should have spayed her but if not it wouldn't hurt to get her spayed.
how you got a dog from the humane society with out her being fixed is new to me, but if she is just coming out of heat she is just like the rest of us women when we PMS, but you really need to take her to obedience school and get her trained. I have a pit bull when she was pup she started on the growling and biting stage I would pop her on her nose and say no bites kisses, she now kisses and shares all her toys and food with anyone who wants to play with her. I would advise taking her and having her fixed, when you do that it should mellow her out some. But a major issue is try the training also. Your local petsmart have wonderful training sessions that the whole family can get involved with. You don't want her thinking that biting the kids is okay. You want to lets say bite that in the butt quick. Any dog bite from any size dog can turn dangerous. Please don't just give up on her try to find a solution to it be the vet or a training course. She will thank you in the end and dogs make the most wonderful friends no matter the breed. So i wouldn't worry about what she is mixed with and work on your issue of trying to fix the problem.
Some things that helped with my dog are,
obedience classes,
have her spayed.
One thing that really helped was feed her her kibble by hand. This might take a while but with every meal hand feed her for a while, and after she is good with you have your boys do the same. Also don't leave her food out all the time just have set meal times then remove what she has not ate. This way she gets to know you are the provider of the food and hence you are the top dog - not to be bitten.
If she does snap or bite you or anyone quickly tap her nose, hard enough that she don't like it. Don't beat her or slap her else where. This is how the alpha wolf teaches the lower wolf not to snap at him.
Other people will probably have some more ideas but this is what worked with my dog who used to snap a lot. Now he is well behaved and calm. Also mine was abused before I got him so I would never slap him anywhere except tap his nose. It worked and now he trusts me.
have her fixed the take her to doggy school or call a behaviorist and see whats going on since she just came out of her first heat her personality might change so like i stated before get her fixed and working with her (witch ever way you choose) you could get to the point where your kids can give her bones good luck
Follow up question to the puppy litter box training?
What would you use in it? and would 4 weeks old be to young to start? they are about 20% of the time going on the potty pads or getting close to them?
Answers:
I start feeding my pups soft solids at 3-3.5 weeks and set up a litter box at that time. I use pads now.. but when I used a box I put hampster shavings in it. Please see my answer to your last question.
if you have a 4 week old puppy you need to worry about other things than litter training him!! that is WAY too young to be away from mom, he should be on formula if he is.
You can buy dog litter called Second Nature. 4 weeks old is a little young- you should make sure they are still with their mom, who will help them learn to be dogs. But you could start showing them where the litter box is and encouraging them to go to it.
I have always lined half of the whelping box with newspaper and the puppies crawl to that when they are as young as two and a half weeks to do their bodily functions there rather than soil their own bedding. .I renew the newspaper frequently throughout the day.
If they are trained to newspaper you can then put the newspaper near the door once the pups are outside their whelping box and they will nearly always use it. By doing this you will see the signs that they need to 'go potty' when they head towards the newspaper by the door and you can open the door and let them go outside and take then to a spot where you want them to use. Wait with them until they go and praise them like crazy and give them a little treat for being a 'good dog'. There is always the odd 'accident' of course as they have no control over their bodily functions until they reach about 5 months of age but they soon get the message and you'll be rewarded in time with a housetrained dog.
I would be slightly concerned about using shavings of any kind as these could get into the puppies' eyes and cause irritation and make them very sore.
This method has always worked for me and my puppies go to their new homes well on the way to being housetrained.
Answers:
I start feeding my pups soft solids at 3-3.5 weeks and set up a litter box at that time. I use pads now.. but when I used a box I put hampster shavings in it. Please see my answer to your last question.
if you have a 4 week old puppy you need to worry about other things than litter training him!! that is WAY too young to be away from mom, he should be on formula if he is.
You can buy dog litter called Second Nature. 4 weeks old is a little young- you should make sure they are still with their mom, who will help them learn to be dogs. But you could start showing them where the litter box is and encouraging them to go to it.
I have always lined half of the whelping box with newspaper and the puppies crawl to that when they are as young as two and a half weeks to do their bodily functions there rather than soil their own bedding. .I renew the newspaper frequently throughout the day.
If they are trained to newspaper you can then put the newspaper near the door once the pups are outside their whelping box and they will nearly always use it. By doing this you will see the signs that they need to 'go potty' when they head towards the newspaper by the door and you can open the door and let them go outside and take then to a spot where you want them to use. Wait with them until they go and praise them like crazy and give them a little treat for being a 'good dog'. There is always the odd 'accident' of course as they have no control over their bodily functions until they reach about 5 months of age but they soon get the message and you'll be rewarded in time with a housetrained dog.
I would be slightly concerned about using shavings of any kind as these could get into the puppies' eyes and cause irritation and make them very sore.
This method has always worked for me and my puppies go to their new homes well on the way to being housetrained.
Flying two miniature yorkshire terriers to canada (6-30 hour flight)?
they are male (6) and female (a little under 6 months).
we're moving to canada, and wonder what would be the best way to get them there with the least amount of stress, especially since my pup cannot handle even a ten minute car ride. she spews.
i heard that you can sedate them, is this true.
(plus the male reallllly likes the female as they have not had any surgery, as we plan to breed later, so we don't want them to mate)
(we plan to fly out next march, when she'll be in heat)
Answers:
You cannot "sedate" the dogs for 6 hours. However, they can be tranquilised with:
- ACP (dogs wont move much but can hear and see everything)
- Valium. (Safer and nicer for the dogs as dont hear and see much anymore: dont get scared)
This will not avoid them mating if they feel like it, so separation seems necessary. I recommend not to use the anti-heat treatment as those may trigger uterine infections along with other side effects: separate the dogs for 2-3 weeks is the only acceptable option if we cae about the dog's health.
Enjoy Canada!
well, for a start you can give her some pills when she comes into season, so they dont mate, (its best to wait till shes 2 anyway)
have a chat with your vet about sedating them, dont they have to go into quarantine anymore ?? wonderful if they dont.
I used to live in canada, beautiful country, good luck in your new life
keep them apart by putting a divider in the crate so they can still be to togetther but Carnot get together lol ,your male will bark and howl because he will want to get to the female ,good luck on going to Canada (wish me and my family were emigrating) x
I would ask my vet for ACP (Acetylpromazine) for sedation. It slows the heart rate down but does not knock them out.
we're moving to canada, and wonder what would be the best way to get them there with the least amount of stress, especially since my pup cannot handle even a ten minute car ride. she spews.
i heard that you can sedate them, is this true.
(plus the male reallllly likes the female as they have not had any surgery, as we plan to breed later, so we don't want them to mate)
(we plan to fly out next march, when she'll be in heat)
Answers:
You cannot "sedate" the dogs for 6 hours. However, they can be tranquilised with:
- ACP (dogs wont move much but can hear and see everything)
- Valium. (Safer and nicer for the dogs as dont hear and see much anymore: dont get scared)
This will not avoid them mating if they feel like it, so separation seems necessary. I recommend not to use the anti-heat treatment as those may trigger uterine infections along with other side effects: separate the dogs for 2-3 weeks is the only acceptable option if we cae about the dog's health.
Enjoy Canada!
well, for a start you can give her some pills when she comes into season, so they dont mate, (its best to wait till shes 2 anyway)
have a chat with your vet about sedating them, dont they have to go into quarantine anymore ?? wonderful if they dont.
I used to live in canada, beautiful country, good luck in your new life
keep them apart by putting a divider in the crate so they can still be to togetther but Carnot get together lol ,your male will bark and howl because he will want to get to the female ,good luck on going to Canada (wish me and my family were emigrating) x
I would ask my vet for ACP (Acetylpromazine) for sedation. It slows the heart rate down but does not knock them out.
Flies attacking husky's ears? How do I stop them?
It's been a really bad summer for flies. They keep attacking my siberian husky's ears. They're like chewing and nesting on his ears. This happened last year, too, and he has scars on his poor little ears from it. I don't want his ears to get infected or irratated, so what can I do? I thought about putting vasaline, vick's vapor rub or udder balm on them, but I'm afraid the flies would be even more attracted to his ears! Any recommendations?
Answers:
They make sprays for this kind of thing. Some that I have heard of are called AUTAN and SWAT (this comes out bright pink I'm told-so you can see it on your dog's ears). I'm told that it lasts a LONG time though, so you might not need to use a whole lot of it very often.
try using tea tree oil shampoo next time you bathe your dog. It is a very effective insect repellent. But be carefull of the percentage of Tea Tree Oil, I have heard that it can be harmful to animals in large doses.
Try Skin so Soft... That should help
Go to a store, like Blaine's Farm and Fleet, and get some ointment called Flies Off or Flys off or something like that.It is typically used for horses, but it really works on dogs.My newest dog has been having that problem, but his ears are scraped( I don't know why but it is weird) so the flies are really bad.I just put some of it on and it heals up and keeps the flies away.
Sparkles=D
You can try putting spray-off by his ear. You can keep him inside more. But spray-off keeps most of them away, I'm just not sure it'll burn his skin or not. Have good luck getting rid of the flies.
I got some stuff called SWAT for horses to keep flies away. It helps heal too, only thing is is that it's neon pink cream, looks kinda funny. Works excellent. I have a shepherd with the same problem.
A few years back I got some ointment from the vet called VIP. You put a light film on the ears and it keeps the flies away. A certain time of the summer the flies start to bite my German Shepherds ears. Before I got this the edges actually bled!
This is called "Fly Strike" and you can look it up online and see if you can find some solutions. Basically the flies are feeding off your dog's tissues and blood as well as laying eggs in there.
You need to do something quickly to resolve it or it will get much worse.
First you need to try and get rid of the flies in your yard. Keeping the poop cleaned up daily as well as hosing down places with high urine will help. There are fly traps you can buy at home Depot that will attract the flies into a bag and kill them when they feed off the poison inside.
As far as treatment, you should consult your vet on the best course to treat your dog's current ear problem. There are ointments and sprays(try equine fly products) which can help, but keeping him indoors is best while his ears are raw and susceptible. He may need antibiotics if the ears are already showing signs of infection or impending infection.
I wouldn't put any ointment of any kind on your dog's ears until you've check with the vet. I have heard that Avon's Skin
So Soft is something thats worked for dogs though.
Here's a couple of links regarding Fly Strike you might want to check. WARNING...one is kind of graphic...
http://www.petplace.com/dogs/fly-strike/...
http://www.minnesotamalamuteclub.com/fly...
http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/pests/b...
best of luck!
Answers:
They make sprays for this kind of thing. Some that I have heard of are called AUTAN and SWAT (this comes out bright pink I'm told-so you can see it on your dog's ears). I'm told that it lasts a LONG time though, so you might not need to use a whole lot of it very often.
try using tea tree oil shampoo next time you bathe your dog. It is a very effective insect repellent. But be carefull of the percentage of Tea Tree Oil, I have heard that it can be harmful to animals in large doses.
Try Skin so Soft... That should help
Go to a store, like Blaine's Farm and Fleet, and get some ointment called Flies Off or Flys off or something like that.It is typically used for horses, but it really works on dogs.My newest dog has been having that problem, but his ears are scraped( I don't know why but it is weird) so the flies are really bad.I just put some of it on and it heals up and keeps the flies away.
Sparkles=D
You can try putting spray-off by his ear. You can keep him inside more. But spray-off keeps most of them away, I'm just not sure it'll burn his skin or not. Have good luck getting rid of the flies.
I got some stuff called SWAT for horses to keep flies away. It helps heal too, only thing is is that it's neon pink cream, looks kinda funny. Works excellent. I have a shepherd with the same problem.
A few years back I got some ointment from the vet called VIP. You put a light film on the ears and it keeps the flies away. A certain time of the summer the flies start to bite my German Shepherds ears. Before I got this the edges actually bled!
This is called "Fly Strike" and you can look it up online and see if you can find some solutions. Basically the flies are feeding off your dog's tissues and blood as well as laying eggs in there.
You need to do something quickly to resolve it or it will get much worse.
First you need to try and get rid of the flies in your yard. Keeping the poop cleaned up daily as well as hosing down places with high urine will help. There are fly traps you can buy at home Depot that will attract the flies into a bag and kill them when they feed off the poison inside.
As far as treatment, you should consult your vet on the best course to treat your dog's current ear problem. There are ointments and sprays(try equine fly products) which can help, but keeping him indoors is best while his ears are raw and susceptible. He may need antibiotics if the ears are already showing signs of infection or impending infection.
I wouldn't put any ointment of any kind on your dog's ears until you've check with the vet. I have heard that Avon's Skin
So Soft is something thats worked for dogs though.
Here's a couple of links regarding Fly Strike you might want to check. WARNING...one is kind of graphic...
http://www.petplace.com/dogs/fly-strike/...
http://www.minnesotamalamuteclub.com/fly...
http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/pests/b...
best of luck!
Fleas.. Fleas... FLEAS!!?
I have a 9 month old 6 pound yorkie. I've moved home with my parents for a few months while my husband finishes his tour in Germany. They have a huge German Shepard next door that has fleas bad!! Now my little dog has fleas and has brought them in the house. We have professionally sprayed our yard and the neighbor's yard and our house from top to bottom - repeatedly! My dog is on Frontline Plus and I have the Frontline spray to put on him. We are dusting the carpets everyday and washing the bedding like mad! I have a flea comb and are still pulling them off of my dog, probably 6-8 at a time.
I just bought some Paramite from my vet but havent used it yet. I am kinda afraid, the vet made it sound awful for the dog. Have any of you used it?
What else can i do?? My vet told me not to give my dog garlic powder. My vet where we used to live had these pills that worked like a charm, but this vet does not.
How do I get these little monsters out of my house!?!?!?!
Answers:
Be persistant! Hate to tell ya but the live adult fleas are only 5% of the problem. 95% of them rest are in the egg, pupa, and larvae stages. Sounds like you are doing the right things though. Treating the dog's environment (ie, the house) in one of the most important. Frontline Plus is one of the best out there. Be sure to apply the frontline 24-48 hours AFTER the bath. Frontline needs the oils in your dogs coat to travel over the dog and be effective. I am a vet tech and have used Frotline for years. The Merial rep that sells to us recommends tough cases like this to call their hotline and see what suggestions they (the manufactuer) has to offer you. Here's their website for some more info and their number.
PS - I would avoid Paramite in such a little guy.
Give your dog a bath
Frontline doesn't repel fleas. The flea has to actually bite the dog for it to kill it. I use Advantage and it really works. It repels the fleas as well as killing them. You can also use K-9 Advantix. It has a chemical in it that is fatal to cats. We don't use it for that reason (we have a cat). They are both made by the same company. Hope this works. I know how frustrating a flea problem can be.
try flea bombs. they worked for me.then soak the little dog with the front line spray.i mean soak him to the skin..you may need to give him a very short hair cut to help the penetration of the spray.i hope this helps.i have yorkies too..and my female just had 8 pups six weeks ago.they are so cute
A flea infestation is going to take time and diligence to get rid of. Don't give up your current efforts. I have found that bathing my dog with Epsom salt makes the fleas jump off. You do need to rinse with clear water afterward or the residue salt will dry their skin.
Use advantage, it repels before they bite. It will take up to 4 months for the fleas in the house. Giving them a flea bath will get the fleas that are on them off, but immediately after, the fleas will get back on. What I would do is a flea bomb and put advantage on the dogs and then sweep the floor which will pick up some of the eggs. Advantage is the best thing to use though because they won't get bitten. Just remember it could take as long as 4 months, but it will be working unless they bring in fleas from outside. It sounds like you don't have that problem though so just put advantage on the dogs and it will start to work within a half hour.
Frontline does repel fleas and the ones you are pulling off, are the moving or not moving? Because if you are seeing ones that are not moving that means they are dead and your hard work has paid off. but if there are more moving give it a bath in flea and tick shampoo and conditioner.
Neither Frontline or Advantage repel fleas..there is nO flea repellant. Also with Frontline the fleas do NOT have to bite the dog in order to be killed. Frontline kills, the adult fleas, eggs %26 larve.
When there is a heavy infestation it will take from 3-4 months to get it under control no matter waht you use.
I would stop using all other products and so many combinations of products since continued use will not only be toxic to your dog but to any humans in the house. Just continue to use the Frontline monthly as directed. Vacumn your house daily, throw away the bag in a sealed plastic bag and put in an outside trash container after every vacumning.
Don't worry about seeing fleas on the dog this is actually good as the Frontline will kill them and will greatly help reduce the numbers in the house.
Make sure to vacumn your vehicles out as well since you will just take fleas and eggs back and forth with you.
Do NOT use Paramite!! Listen to your vet he is right!
I just bought some Paramite from my vet but havent used it yet. I am kinda afraid, the vet made it sound awful for the dog. Have any of you used it?
What else can i do?? My vet told me not to give my dog garlic powder. My vet where we used to live had these pills that worked like a charm, but this vet does not.
How do I get these little monsters out of my house!?!?!?!
Answers:
Be persistant! Hate to tell ya but the live adult fleas are only 5% of the problem. 95% of them rest are in the egg, pupa, and larvae stages. Sounds like you are doing the right things though. Treating the dog's environment (ie, the house) in one of the most important. Frontline Plus is one of the best out there. Be sure to apply the frontline 24-48 hours AFTER the bath. Frontline needs the oils in your dogs coat to travel over the dog and be effective. I am a vet tech and have used Frotline for years. The Merial rep that sells to us recommends tough cases like this to call their hotline and see what suggestions they (the manufactuer) has to offer you. Here's their website for some more info and their number.
PS - I would avoid Paramite in such a little guy.
Give your dog a bath
Frontline doesn't repel fleas. The flea has to actually bite the dog for it to kill it. I use Advantage and it really works. It repels the fleas as well as killing them. You can also use K-9 Advantix. It has a chemical in it that is fatal to cats. We don't use it for that reason (we have a cat). They are both made by the same company. Hope this works. I know how frustrating a flea problem can be.
try flea bombs. they worked for me.then soak the little dog with the front line spray.i mean soak him to the skin..you may need to give him a very short hair cut to help the penetration of the spray.i hope this helps.i have yorkies too..and my female just had 8 pups six weeks ago.they are so cute
A flea infestation is going to take time and diligence to get rid of. Don't give up your current efforts. I have found that bathing my dog with Epsom salt makes the fleas jump off. You do need to rinse with clear water afterward or the residue salt will dry their skin.
Use advantage, it repels before they bite. It will take up to 4 months for the fleas in the house. Giving them a flea bath will get the fleas that are on them off, but immediately after, the fleas will get back on. What I would do is a flea bomb and put advantage on the dogs and then sweep the floor which will pick up some of the eggs. Advantage is the best thing to use though because they won't get bitten. Just remember it could take as long as 4 months, but it will be working unless they bring in fleas from outside. It sounds like you don't have that problem though so just put advantage on the dogs and it will start to work within a half hour.
Frontline does repel fleas and the ones you are pulling off, are the moving or not moving? Because if you are seeing ones that are not moving that means they are dead and your hard work has paid off. but if there are more moving give it a bath in flea and tick shampoo and conditioner.
Neither Frontline or Advantage repel fleas..there is nO flea repellant. Also with Frontline the fleas do NOT have to bite the dog in order to be killed. Frontline kills, the adult fleas, eggs %26 larve.
When there is a heavy infestation it will take from 3-4 months to get it under control no matter waht you use.
I would stop using all other products and so many combinations of products since continued use will not only be toxic to your dog but to any humans in the house. Just continue to use the Frontline monthly as directed. Vacumn your house daily, throw away the bag in a sealed plastic bag and put in an outside trash container after every vacumning.
Don't worry about seeing fleas on the dog this is actually good as the Frontline will kill them and will greatly help reduce the numbers in the house.
Make sure to vacumn your vehicles out as well since you will just take fleas and eggs back and forth with you.
Do NOT use Paramite!! Listen to your vet he is right!
Fleas on dog and in the house. Help !?
This is the first time we have had fleas in the house .
Has anyone heard of usin Skin So Soft in the dogs rinse water ?
Shall I use salt on the carpet ? Thanks
Answers:
get rid of the dog , spray the house , get a goldfish for a pet
Well what you can do to control and keep fleas and ticks on a minimal, you should clean your household furnitures, floors, and your and your pet's beddings/toys everyday. Usually ticks and fleas lay eggs in between furnitures, cushions, carpets and etc and by vacuuming it, it will get rid of as much eggs as possible. Eliminating the chances of them hatching and jumping back on your pets or migrating to a different area of the house. So clean, sweep, vacuum. Do what you have to do to keep your house and the environment clean for you and your pets !
Also, there is a spray for rid fleas and ticks that are made from ALL natural ingredients called Sentry Natural Defense. I gave you a website regarding all info about that product. Hope you'll find one that works for you. Good luck !
First let me tell you that I own a pest control company and what I will recommend is the complete treatment that should help you completely get rid of the fleas.
First, treat the pet with Capstar. This is a pill that you get from the vet that will kill all of the fleas that get on the animal for the first 24 hours. Second, use either Frontline or Advantage, these can also be purchased from the vet. Frontline can be used on pets 12 weeks old or older. Advantage can be used on animals as young as 6 weeks. If the pet is old enough for either product, switch back and forth between the two. One month use one, the next use the other. The reason I recommend this is that there are two main types of fleas that infest pets. One product works better on the first type and the other product works better on the second type. By using both, you make sure you have covered all your bases.
Once the pet has been treated, you must treat your home and yard. The best products to do this would include not only a killing agent, but also a sterilization agent. Inside, I would use Ultracide, if you can get it. (Many on line sites sell it.) Follow the instructions on the label! Wash all animal鈥檚 bedding and vacuum frequently. I WOULD NOT put any chemical in the vacuum bag or catch container, other than a flea collar. It is too dangerous to risk the vacuum accidentally spreading that chemical through the air. Throw out the vacuum bag or dump the catch container after every vacuuming. You can never vacuum too much! DO NOT STEAM CLEAN YOUR RUGS! This can hatch flea eggs and make your problem worse.
Outside I would use Demon WP mixed with Gentrol or Nylar, carefully following label instructions. Treat the entire yard, paying special attention to under bushes and low hanging branches. Most of these products can be bought at any Do-It-Yourself Pest Control company either on line or in a store.
Treating your house and yard is just as important as treating the pet!
It is also very important to stay away from the grocery store or box store products like Zodiac or Hartz. Many of these products can cause severe allergic reactions in animals.
Frontline your dog %26 flea bomb your house. Also if you vaccum your carpets on a regular basis it helps keep the fleas away.
Has anyone heard of usin Skin So Soft in the dogs rinse water ?
Shall I use salt on the carpet ? Thanks
Answers:
get rid of the dog , spray the house , get a goldfish for a pet
Well what you can do to control and keep fleas and ticks on a minimal, you should clean your household furnitures, floors, and your and your pet's beddings/toys everyday. Usually ticks and fleas lay eggs in between furnitures, cushions, carpets and etc and by vacuuming it, it will get rid of as much eggs as possible. Eliminating the chances of them hatching and jumping back on your pets or migrating to a different area of the house. So clean, sweep, vacuum. Do what you have to do to keep your house and the environment clean for you and your pets !
Also, there is a spray for rid fleas and ticks that are made from ALL natural ingredients called Sentry Natural Defense. I gave you a website regarding all info about that product. Hope you'll find one that works for you. Good luck !
First let me tell you that I own a pest control company and what I will recommend is the complete treatment that should help you completely get rid of the fleas.
First, treat the pet with Capstar. This is a pill that you get from the vet that will kill all of the fleas that get on the animal for the first 24 hours. Second, use either Frontline or Advantage, these can also be purchased from the vet. Frontline can be used on pets 12 weeks old or older. Advantage can be used on animals as young as 6 weeks. If the pet is old enough for either product, switch back and forth between the two. One month use one, the next use the other. The reason I recommend this is that there are two main types of fleas that infest pets. One product works better on the first type and the other product works better on the second type. By using both, you make sure you have covered all your bases.
Once the pet has been treated, you must treat your home and yard. The best products to do this would include not only a killing agent, but also a sterilization agent. Inside, I would use Ultracide, if you can get it. (Many on line sites sell it.) Follow the instructions on the label! Wash all animal鈥檚 bedding and vacuum frequently. I WOULD NOT put any chemical in the vacuum bag or catch container, other than a flea collar. It is too dangerous to risk the vacuum accidentally spreading that chemical through the air. Throw out the vacuum bag or dump the catch container after every vacuuming. You can never vacuum too much! DO NOT STEAM CLEAN YOUR RUGS! This can hatch flea eggs and make your problem worse.
Outside I would use Demon WP mixed with Gentrol or Nylar, carefully following label instructions. Treat the entire yard, paying special attention to under bushes and low hanging branches. Most of these products can be bought at any Do-It-Yourself Pest Control company either on line or in a store.
Treating your house and yard is just as important as treating the pet!
It is also very important to stay away from the grocery store or box store products like Zodiac or Hartz. Many of these products can cause severe allergic reactions in animals.
Frontline your dog %26 flea bomb your house. Also if you vaccum your carpets on a regular basis it helps keep the fleas away.
Flea's in my backyard??
could my dog get flea's from my backyard?last month i found 1 flea on my dog and then another a couple of days ago while i was giving her a bath so when i did i looked her over 4 about 15 min looking 2 see if i could find anyother flea's but i didn't find any,my house doesn't have flea's and i do have a cat but she doesn't have flea's either so im wondering is my puppy could have picked up these flea's from outside in my backyard,about 1 month ago me and my dad took her 4 a hike and she was walking around in the dirt and in the bushes and stuff so im thinking that maybe thats were she got them.
Answers:
Yes it could have come from your back yard, but it also could of come from someone visiting or you going visit someone that has the flea problem at their house. I had the same problem and come to the conclusion that it was being brought in from the people coming to visit. Keep check on your dog when you have company and again when you go out, check everyday and you will find the cause.
dogs can get fleas from the backyard my dogs get them from my yard. What i do is get flea drops (frontline) every spring it keeps the fleas at bay.
they can pick them up anywhere outside
Fleas are every where outside, just make sure your pet is treated for fleas every month, if so they wont stay on the pet
the pet store should have a product for that
Of course. Dogs and cats can get fleas from anywhere.
Answers:
Yes it could have come from your back yard, but it also could of come from someone visiting or you going visit someone that has the flea problem at their house. I had the same problem and come to the conclusion that it was being brought in from the people coming to visit. Keep check on your dog when you have company and again when you go out, check everyday and you will find the cause.
dogs can get fleas from the backyard my dogs get them from my yard. What i do is get flea drops (frontline) every spring it keeps the fleas at bay.
they can pick them up anywhere outside
Fleas are every where outside, just make sure your pet is treated for fleas every month, if so they wont stay on the pet
the pet store should have a product for that
Of course. Dogs and cats can get fleas from anywhere.
Fleas help?
I have a dog %26 5 cats which r mainly outdoors %26 r all being treated on frontline for fleas. I have bombed the house. while it was being bombed I took all the animals %26 gave them flea baths %26 then applied the frontline product. then i treated the yard. I have 2 acres %26 the yard backs up to acres of woods which I am not really able to treat because of cost %26 it not being my property. WHen we came back inside the house I sprayed everything with a raid spray that was supposed 2 kill fleas %26 egg larvae for 3 months I put flea powder and borax in the carpets %26 washed all bedding in borax. I have also tried the spray products from the vet %26 am sick of spending a ton of money on flea products. The animals get sprayed daily with a spray that is also supposed to kill the fleas. I cant use anymore product on the animals because they r not supposed 2 b combined. All of the products I have used seem to reduce the number of fleas but we still have them does anyone know of sometheing that works?
Answers:
As long as you have a dog and !FIVE! cats, you will always have a flea problem to some degree. It's hard enough managing flea infestations on one or two animals, let alone SIX!
well to tell u the truth i have no idea!!
If you treat each animal with a monthly application (frontline, advantage, bio-spot, etc...) They will go away. I have a zillion animals...soon as I see a flea on one I treat them all. Usually only have to do this once a year. No spraying, bomibing or shampooing necessary. Stop wasting your money and time on that stuff and go back to the vet and get the topical treatments.
I have found the best thing that works on my animals is Dawn dish soap. It's not harmful to the animals and it's not expensive. After I bathe them in Dawn I put Frontline on them. (which I may say is a rip off) For some reason it's not as strong as it used to be. After the Frontline I put a flea collar on them. It seems to be working for now and my pets are indoor/outdoor pets. 1 dog and 3 cats. Good luck.
I'd go to your local pet store and ask them what else they recommend.
I bombed, powdered, collared, and spread chemicals all over my house and pets but we still had an infestation. Even just a day after the bombs.
You'll want to check out which of your treatments have the highest percentage of Methoprene.
There are tons of things that kill fleas, but the Methoprene is the chemical that will interfere with their maturation process, thus breaking the life-cycle.
Mix 5 parts water and 2 part AVON Skin So Soft and mist your animals then brush it will get the fleas off and keep them off. Mix it in their bath water to get fleas off as well.
Yes! I had the same problem. Try Beneficial Nematodes. They are microscopic worm things that you put into your soil. They feed on ants, termites and the larval and grub stages of various beetles, weevils, armyworms, cutworms, chafers, webworms, borers, maggots, FLEAS, ticks, fungus gnats (sciarid flies), to name a few. Easy to apply, just mix them with water %26 using a watering can, water them into your yard. You'll need to do this when the sun's down as it can kill them. Keep your grass watered every day for a good week so the soil's soft for them to burrow down into. After that, they start living in your yard %26 will help with fleas. We've been using them for about 4 years now %26 they DO work! They work great for ants too. All of our ants left our yard :) I bought mine from a local plant nursery. They had them in the fridge to keep them alive %26 I put them in my fridge till I was ready to apply them to the yard.
You can also try Diatomaceous Earth. You just sprinkle that in your yard and can also sprinkle it in the house AS LONG as you get HUMAN GRADE Diatomaceous Earth. Do a google search on both of those to get more info. It's a great solution for pest control without all the chemicals. 100% organic.
I have 2 dogs %26 they are both on Frontline for like 3-4 months (summertime). After that we just let the nematodes do the rest. Good Luck!
I use advantage, you can get it a your vet. Its a little expensive but it works great. Eventually it will take care of the problem with the fleas in the house. Vacuuming a lot will help too. I had a similar problem and that's what I did.
Answers:
As long as you have a dog and !FIVE! cats, you will always have a flea problem to some degree. It's hard enough managing flea infestations on one or two animals, let alone SIX!
well to tell u the truth i have no idea!!
If you treat each animal with a monthly application (frontline, advantage, bio-spot, etc...) They will go away. I have a zillion animals...soon as I see a flea on one I treat them all. Usually only have to do this once a year. No spraying, bomibing or shampooing necessary. Stop wasting your money and time on that stuff and go back to the vet and get the topical treatments.
I have found the best thing that works on my animals is Dawn dish soap. It's not harmful to the animals and it's not expensive. After I bathe them in Dawn I put Frontline on them. (which I may say is a rip off) For some reason it's not as strong as it used to be. After the Frontline I put a flea collar on them. It seems to be working for now and my pets are indoor/outdoor pets. 1 dog and 3 cats. Good luck.
I'd go to your local pet store and ask them what else they recommend.
I bombed, powdered, collared, and spread chemicals all over my house and pets but we still had an infestation. Even just a day after the bombs.
You'll want to check out which of your treatments have the highest percentage of Methoprene.
There are tons of things that kill fleas, but the Methoprene is the chemical that will interfere with their maturation process, thus breaking the life-cycle.
Mix 5 parts water and 2 part AVON Skin So Soft and mist your animals then brush it will get the fleas off and keep them off. Mix it in their bath water to get fleas off as well.
Yes! I had the same problem. Try Beneficial Nematodes. They are microscopic worm things that you put into your soil. They feed on ants, termites and the larval and grub stages of various beetles, weevils, armyworms, cutworms, chafers, webworms, borers, maggots, FLEAS, ticks, fungus gnats (sciarid flies), to name a few. Easy to apply, just mix them with water %26 using a watering can, water them into your yard. You'll need to do this when the sun's down as it can kill them. Keep your grass watered every day for a good week so the soil's soft for them to burrow down into. After that, they start living in your yard %26 will help with fleas. We've been using them for about 4 years now %26 they DO work! They work great for ants too. All of our ants left our yard :) I bought mine from a local plant nursery. They had them in the fridge to keep them alive %26 I put them in my fridge till I was ready to apply them to the yard.
You can also try Diatomaceous Earth. You just sprinkle that in your yard and can also sprinkle it in the house AS LONG as you get HUMAN GRADE Diatomaceous Earth. Do a google search on both of those to get more info. It's a great solution for pest control without all the chemicals. 100% organic.
I have 2 dogs %26 they are both on Frontline for like 3-4 months (summertime). After that we just let the nematodes do the rest. Good Luck!
I use advantage, you can get it a your vet. Its a little expensive but it works great. Eventually it will take care of the problem with the fleas in the house. Vacuuming a lot will help too. I had a similar problem and that's what I did.
Fleas and ticks question?
ok well i found out all 5 of my dogs were infested with fleas and ticks. i removed them from their bodies but my one question is how can i kill all the fleas and ticks in my backyard. ok well maybe not all, i think that would be a bit impossible. but is their a way i can neutralize the problem? is their a pesticide i can use specifically for fleas an ticks that is garden friendly that i can spray on the lawn, bushes, flowers e.t.c.? need some help plz thank u
Answers:
Don't know about the yard, but Frontline will kill the fleas and ticks on your dogs and be a lot less toxic... pricey though with 5.
yes go to menards they have flea and tick spray for the yard make sure you also treat your house of else it will be a loosing battle
Well, there isnt anything you can lay down. They are everywhere and nothing will keep there population down. The only thing to do is protect your pets. K9 advantik is a very good product. I use it religiously on my animals. It is almost fail proof if you keep up the regimen. It is costly but very well worth it. You dont want flee infestation in your house...they bed in everything. Its almost immposible to get rid of them in your house. I hope you can get your prob under control fast
Treating outdoors areas
When treating the area surrounding your house, remember that fleas are not found in your driveway gravel or in the open. The larvae do not survive high temperatures. They are found in shaded areas, like under porches, decks, car ports, at the edges of woods, and especially in places where your pets lay down outdoors.
Dursban:
You can use Dursban for ridding the yard of fleas. Home Depot will have the generic stuff. Spray according to the directions on the label. This is fairly toxic stuff. The generic name is Chlorpyrifos.
Nematodes:
This is a new product for outdoor treatment. "Bio Flea Halt" and "Interrupt" are two brand names -- probably others exist. Nematodes are bugs that eat fleas. You apply it to your backyard with a pump sprayer; hose sprayers will also work. [Not sure about details of application: do you apply to grass? dirt? what about decks? effect on existing plants?] Toxicity to humans/dogs is non-existent, early studies show a good degree of effectiveness.
For those with outdoor pets, diatomaceous earth, boric acid and silica aerogels can be used to treat your lawn for fleas and ticks. These chemicals were lauded by the Apr 92 Sunset magazine in their list of least toxic chemicals, sprays and dusts, which were discussed for those people who want to control pests more naturally. These are not poisons, and kill by clinging to, scratching and and destroying the waxy exteriors, or dessicating the pests. Sunset does point out that these chemicals should not be inhaled as they will irritate or abrade the lungs in the same way (which isn't a big problem once they've settled into your lawn). Diatomaceous earth is an abrading agent (much like borax). Use natural grade rather than pool grade diatomacious earth. Boric acid is also a abrading agent. Silica aerogels are dessicants, and kill the insects through dehydration. It is recommended that these chemicals be used in powder form to kill fleas and ticks.
got the sam e problem . we sprayed our yard down with bleach water and dawn dish soap. it helped. but when we got rid of the dogs we had to burn everything. but the bleach water and dawn dish soap elimanated most of them just hook it up,to the water hose. do it at least two times a week. hope this helped.
Im sorry I dont know the name off the top of my head but there is a natural enzyme for the lawn and it will eat fleas and other pesty bugs but it is family, pet, and garden friendly. Ive been told you can find this at any garden center. There are also pesticides that are supposed to be safe after they dry but im not sure I would trust that IF your dogs eat grass. Good luck.
THIS IS THE ANSWER!! moth balls and flakes will remove the fleas from inside and around your home. We have tried everything and nothing worked! my aunt used moth balls roughly 8 months ago and has not had a problem since! Promise! Another thing, when you are trying to get rid of fleas on your animals use Dawn Brand antibacterial dish soap. Soap it on them really thick and leave it on them for 10 minutes, and you will actually see the fleas suffocating. It is a much cheaper option and much safer for your dogs. My parents are both vets and this is always the recommendation for fleas! It will clean your dog very well and help with shedding.Good Luck!!
I'm not sure what to use on the yard - but make sure it is animal safe. You don't want your little guys getting sick from that. Make sure to treat your dogs w/ Frontline every month to keep the fleas and ticks off of them. You may want to get them checked for Lyme Disease (a tick transmitted disease). If you start noticing your pups being lethargic or favoring certain legs then definitely get them checked!!
Answers:
Don't know about the yard, but Frontline will kill the fleas and ticks on your dogs and be a lot less toxic... pricey though with 5.
yes go to menards they have flea and tick spray for the yard make sure you also treat your house of else it will be a loosing battle
Well, there isnt anything you can lay down. They are everywhere and nothing will keep there population down. The only thing to do is protect your pets. K9 advantik is a very good product. I use it religiously on my animals. It is almost fail proof if you keep up the regimen. It is costly but very well worth it. You dont want flee infestation in your house...they bed in everything. Its almost immposible to get rid of them in your house. I hope you can get your prob under control fast
Treating outdoors areas
When treating the area surrounding your house, remember that fleas are not found in your driveway gravel or in the open. The larvae do not survive high temperatures. They are found in shaded areas, like under porches, decks, car ports, at the edges of woods, and especially in places where your pets lay down outdoors.
Dursban:
You can use Dursban for ridding the yard of fleas. Home Depot will have the generic stuff. Spray according to the directions on the label. This is fairly toxic stuff. The generic name is Chlorpyrifos.
Nematodes:
This is a new product for outdoor treatment. "Bio Flea Halt" and "Interrupt" are two brand names -- probably others exist. Nematodes are bugs that eat fleas. You apply it to your backyard with a pump sprayer; hose sprayers will also work. [Not sure about details of application: do you apply to grass? dirt? what about decks? effect on existing plants?] Toxicity to humans/dogs is non-existent, early studies show a good degree of effectiveness.
For those with outdoor pets, diatomaceous earth, boric acid and silica aerogels can be used to treat your lawn for fleas and ticks. These chemicals were lauded by the Apr 92 Sunset magazine in their list of least toxic chemicals, sprays and dusts, which were discussed for those people who want to control pests more naturally. These are not poisons, and kill by clinging to, scratching and and destroying the waxy exteriors, or dessicating the pests. Sunset does point out that these chemicals should not be inhaled as they will irritate or abrade the lungs in the same way (which isn't a big problem once they've settled into your lawn). Diatomaceous earth is an abrading agent (much like borax). Use natural grade rather than pool grade diatomacious earth. Boric acid is also a abrading agent. Silica aerogels are dessicants, and kill the insects through dehydration. It is recommended that these chemicals be used in powder form to kill fleas and ticks.
got the sam e problem . we sprayed our yard down with bleach water and dawn dish soap. it helped. but when we got rid of the dogs we had to burn everything. but the bleach water and dawn dish soap elimanated most of them just hook it up,to the water hose. do it at least two times a week. hope this helped.
Im sorry I dont know the name off the top of my head but there is a natural enzyme for the lawn and it will eat fleas and other pesty bugs but it is family, pet, and garden friendly. Ive been told you can find this at any garden center. There are also pesticides that are supposed to be safe after they dry but im not sure I would trust that IF your dogs eat grass. Good luck.
THIS IS THE ANSWER!! moth balls and flakes will remove the fleas from inside and around your home. We have tried everything and nothing worked! my aunt used moth balls roughly 8 months ago and has not had a problem since! Promise! Another thing, when you are trying to get rid of fleas on your animals use Dawn Brand antibacterial dish soap. Soap it on them really thick and leave it on them for 10 minutes, and you will actually see the fleas suffocating. It is a much cheaper option and much safer for your dogs. My parents are both vets and this is always the recommendation for fleas! It will clean your dog very well and help with shedding.Good Luck!!
I'm not sure what to use on the yard - but make sure it is animal safe. You don't want your little guys getting sick from that. Make sure to treat your dogs w/ Frontline every month to keep the fleas and ticks off of them. You may want to get them checked for Lyme Disease (a tick transmitted disease). If you start noticing your pups being lethargic or favoring certain legs then definitely get them checked!!
Fleas and fle medication? Help!?
I just bought a 12-week-old female Westie pup from a breeder a few days ago. When I brought her home everything seemed fine until I decided to bathe her and that is when I saw the dreaded flea. To be exact she had about four on her that I caught. The next day I began to look and see if she had fleas and found two more, this is when I decided to do something. I decided to go to the vet and bought frontline top spot, which seemed to do the job until I saw her scratching. She keeps on biting and scratching herself and it seems to me that she may still have flees. Is this normal or should I get a different flee medication? Could it be something else?
Answers:
Wait at least 48 hours after bathing your dog before you put on the topical flea treatment. It takes at least that long for the oils in the skin to replenish themselves and the flea treatment spreads through those oils. She may be having and allergic reaction to the flea bites, may have dry skin, or may be irritated from the shampoo you used. If you don't get all of the shampoo out of her hair then it can cause an irritation. For some crazy reason fleas are also more attracted to lighter coated dogs such as a white Westie. I've always used Frontline and find it to be very affective. My dogs are swimmers too and it doesn't wash off of their skin as easily as Advantage. If you decide to switch to a different medication make sure to wait until it is time again (one month). Don't want to be over dosing your puppy.
the flea medication is very good and you only have to put it on once in a few weeks.it takes around 72 hours to fully work when you start it off and also westies are prone to sensitive skin and itching so give it a few days and then if the itching doesnt go dont put lots of different things on its skin go back to vet.did you spray your home and the pups bed for fleas too?they get everywhere and jump on the dog as it lies down.yuk!but generally your doing everything right.
she may have a flea allergy.. that is, she's allergic to the flea bites. The fleas may already be gone from the frontline, but she is itching where she got bit (kinda like how a mosquito bite itches like crazy a few days after you get bit).. if she keeps digging at herself, you may want to take her to the vet for an allergy shot. I had a dog with a mild flea allergy and the vet gave him a small dose of cortizone.. he stopped itching right away.
I personally prefer Advantage. I find it to be most effective and gentle. Invest in a flea comb (a good one should be about $10). It should have metal teeth that are so close together you almost can't see through them. Keep combing him every day to help get the fleas off manually.
Check with your vet to see how long they would recommend waiting before trying a different product. Advantage should show you excellent results within 24 hours.
But you should be aware that there is a stage in the flea life cycle when it cannot be killed. Those larvae will hatch out, but should die out soon thereafter. Then be sure to keep up with your monthly flea control and heartworm preventative and you should be fine.
Each time she scratches, quickly search the region she is scracthing to see if there is anymore flea. It may take time for the medication to work. If you see no flea but her skin is reddish from the scratch, she could be allergic to flea bite.
Boosting her immune system is also a good alternative to getting rid of the flea in the long run.
Check out this article that talks about it.
http://www.dogcarezone.com/blog/natural-...
I use Advantix on my dog.
Advantix (not to be confused with Advantage) kills all stages of fleas, ticks and mosquitoes.
Ours in an indoor/outdoor dog and we have never seen a flea on her.
Quickly wash off the Frontline Immediately! She may be having a reaction to the chemicals and may be burning her.
There have been many dogs that have had reactions to spot on treatments, and have died from that exposure. I had a friend who had convulsions within 2 days of having a spot on treatment provided and he died a week later. Spot on treatments act neurologically on a dog. They are absorbed through the skin and some dogs are very sensitive to the poison that is used. Aproximately 3 dogs a day die from spot on flea treatments... Please review the website below.
I use a holistic approach to flea treatment. Wash the dog with a sudsy shampoo. I like to use Ivory dish soap, which does not alter the dogs natural PH, Wash the dog and leave the suds on for 20 minutes without rinsing. The suds will drown any fleas on the dog. Then rinse the dog off. I feed my dog a mixture of 2 parts brewers yeast to 1 part garlic powder and place a tsp of the mix over their food. Fleas and ticks and mosquitos are not attracted by the bitter smell of the blood. They will not use your dog as a lunch table.
Then vaccuum your house well to rid the eggs and any fleas that may jump off. You may want to put Diamoutrous Earth (food grade) on your carpet for a few days. Recheck the house and dog in 2 weeks for reinfestation.
You can place a 13 x 9 inch pan filled with soapy dishwater under a lamp light in your room. The fleas will be attracted by the heat of the light and jump into the soapy water and drown.
Check the pan the next morning.
I went to walmart and got puppy flea shampoo
worked on the spot
then we combed him with a flea comb
im sure that fleas lay eggs on the puppy
thats why they are comming back
or it just didnt kill all of them
hope i helped!
I give my dog heartworm pills, brand name SENTINEL. The SENTINEL tablets not only take care of heartworm, they also kill fleas and ticks. I live in a house in the woods and my dogs have long fur and have never had ticks. SENTINEL is great and soooo simple I cannot say enough good things about the product.
You can get SENTINEL at your vet. I woud recommend using a "bug-bomb" in your house/apartment. A bug-bomb is a device that will kill all the bugs in your house - make sure nobody is home when you ignite it (that includes your dog of course). You can get bug-bombs at ACE hardware, Home Deport, Lowes, etc.
Finally, if you already purchased some other heartworm meds for your dog, don't throw them out. Keep them for the winter when you don't have to worry about fleas and ticks. I give my dogs a cheaper brand of heartworm pills in the winter. Good luck.
Answers:
Wait at least 48 hours after bathing your dog before you put on the topical flea treatment. It takes at least that long for the oils in the skin to replenish themselves and the flea treatment spreads through those oils. She may be having and allergic reaction to the flea bites, may have dry skin, or may be irritated from the shampoo you used. If you don't get all of the shampoo out of her hair then it can cause an irritation. For some crazy reason fleas are also more attracted to lighter coated dogs such as a white Westie. I've always used Frontline and find it to be very affective. My dogs are swimmers too and it doesn't wash off of their skin as easily as Advantage. If you decide to switch to a different medication make sure to wait until it is time again (one month). Don't want to be over dosing your puppy.
the flea medication is very good and you only have to put it on once in a few weeks.it takes around 72 hours to fully work when you start it off and also westies are prone to sensitive skin and itching so give it a few days and then if the itching doesnt go dont put lots of different things on its skin go back to vet.did you spray your home and the pups bed for fleas too?they get everywhere and jump on the dog as it lies down.yuk!but generally your doing everything right.
she may have a flea allergy.. that is, she's allergic to the flea bites. The fleas may already be gone from the frontline, but she is itching where she got bit (kinda like how a mosquito bite itches like crazy a few days after you get bit).. if she keeps digging at herself, you may want to take her to the vet for an allergy shot. I had a dog with a mild flea allergy and the vet gave him a small dose of cortizone.. he stopped itching right away.
I personally prefer Advantage. I find it to be most effective and gentle. Invest in a flea comb (a good one should be about $10). It should have metal teeth that are so close together you almost can't see through them. Keep combing him every day to help get the fleas off manually.
Check with your vet to see how long they would recommend waiting before trying a different product. Advantage should show you excellent results within 24 hours.
But you should be aware that there is a stage in the flea life cycle when it cannot be killed. Those larvae will hatch out, but should die out soon thereafter. Then be sure to keep up with your monthly flea control and heartworm preventative and you should be fine.
Each time she scratches, quickly search the region she is scracthing to see if there is anymore flea. It may take time for the medication to work. If you see no flea but her skin is reddish from the scratch, she could be allergic to flea bite.
Boosting her immune system is also a good alternative to getting rid of the flea in the long run.
Check out this article that talks about it.
http://www.dogcarezone.com/blog/natural-...
I use Advantix on my dog.
Advantix (not to be confused with Advantage) kills all stages of fleas, ticks and mosquitoes.
Ours in an indoor/outdoor dog and we have never seen a flea on her.
Quickly wash off the Frontline Immediately! She may be having a reaction to the chemicals and may be burning her.
There have been many dogs that have had reactions to spot on treatments, and have died from that exposure. I had a friend who had convulsions within 2 days of having a spot on treatment provided and he died a week later. Spot on treatments act neurologically on a dog. They are absorbed through the skin and some dogs are very sensitive to the poison that is used. Aproximately 3 dogs a day die from spot on flea treatments... Please review the website below.
I use a holistic approach to flea treatment. Wash the dog with a sudsy shampoo. I like to use Ivory dish soap, which does not alter the dogs natural PH, Wash the dog and leave the suds on for 20 minutes without rinsing. The suds will drown any fleas on the dog. Then rinse the dog off. I feed my dog a mixture of 2 parts brewers yeast to 1 part garlic powder and place a tsp of the mix over their food. Fleas and ticks and mosquitos are not attracted by the bitter smell of the blood. They will not use your dog as a lunch table.
Then vaccuum your house well to rid the eggs and any fleas that may jump off. You may want to put Diamoutrous Earth (food grade) on your carpet for a few days. Recheck the house and dog in 2 weeks for reinfestation.
You can place a 13 x 9 inch pan filled with soapy dishwater under a lamp light in your room. The fleas will be attracted by the heat of the light and jump into the soapy water and drown.
Check the pan the next morning.
I went to walmart and got puppy flea shampoo
worked on the spot
then we combed him with a flea comb
im sure that fleas lay eggs on the puppy
thats why they are comming back
or it just didnt kill all of them
hope i helped!
I give my dog heartworm pills, brand name SENTINEL. The SENTINEL tablets not only take care of heartworm, they also kill fleas and ticks. I live in a house in the woods and my dogs have long fur and have never had ticks. SENTINEL is great and soooo simple I cannot say enough good things about the product.
You can get SENTINEL at your vet. I woud recommend using a "bug-bomb" in your house/apartment. A bug-bomb is a device that will kill all the bugs in your house - make sure nobody is home when you ignite it (that includes your dog of course). You can get bug-bombs at ACE hardware, Home Deport, Lowes, etc.
Finally, if you already purchased some other heartworm meds for your dog, don't throw them out. Keep them for the winter when you don't have to worry about fleas and ticks. I give my dogs a cheaper brand of heartworm pills in the winter. Good luck.
Fleas ... Natural way to get rid of them!?
we had two dogs for 17 years and never had a days problem with fleas... we now have two different dogs and within the last year we have had nothing but problems... we've taken carpets up and replaced with wooden flooring, the sofa covers and throws are washed on a regular basis but we cant get rid of the horrid black things!
... my other half being quite alternative... will not resort to bathing the dogs in ... what i call proper flea shampoo for dogs... in all fairness he has a point i have read up on it and the shampoo can be harmful stuff...
has anyone got any tried and tested remedies for fleas... the natural way! ... many thanks! :)
Answers:
when i had dogs i bought some garlic tablets and they never had fleas. they dont do the dogs any harm. the reason the fleas dont go on your dogs is that the smell of garlic comes through the pores and the fleas cant stand the smell of it
I have heard that Dawn Dish soap is pretty good for getting fleas off of animals, but I don't think it will do anything to keep the fleas off of the dogs. Really Front Line and Advantage monthly flea treatments are very good products and work very well at killing fleas and flea eggs as well as keeping fleas off of your dogs.
Mint!
Rub tea tree oil into their genitals
That's easy. You just get them between your thumbnails an squeeze.
Use tea tree oil shampoo and conditioner on your dogs. You could also spray them with tea tree dilluted in water before you go out. Totally harmless and 100% natural so will keep your dogs and your other half happy.
As far as getting fleas out of your carpet here is a method I read about once. Close Ali the shades in the room to make the room as dark as possible. Put a small lamp in the middle of the room. Remove the lamp shade and turn the lamp on. Then place a couple of bowls of soapy water around the lamp and close the door to the room. After 4 or 5 hours go check. The theory is that the fleas are attracted to the light, jump at it, then land in the soapy water. Hope this helps.
"natural flea control" search results:
http://www.dogpack.com/shop/grooming/nat...
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/xdpy/s...
http://www.homeovet.net/content/lifestyl...
http://www.dogpack.com/shop/grooming/dog...
http://www.petsafe-warehouse.com/flea_ti...
http://www.motherearthnews.com/livestock...
adding cider vinegar to their water regularly will help in the long term, 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water maybe, or you could spray them with it to help now. Also treat your furniture
You need to feed your dogs one garlic pill a day. The fleas do not like the odor and they will stay away from your dogs. It is perfectly harmless to your dogs.
You could try putting a peeled clove of garlic in their water bowl.
The fleas breed in the cracks in the floorboards, in soft furnishings etc, so you really need to use a flea spray that treats the flea eggs, something like 'Acclaim' and 'Frontline' for the dogs, both from the vet, otherwide you'll never get rid of the fleas.
After they've been eradicated, then try the natural remedies to keep the fleas off, but fleas are resilient little bugs and they won't go for a bit of mint or garlic. They might -eventually- stay off the dogs on a quasi-natural regime but all that will happen then is that you will start being bitten, and virulently, and the whole cycle will start all over again...
Sometimes a quick dose of chemicals, formulated for the job, is the best thing for an infestation, then try the natural methods to keep up the prevention afterwards.
Unless you fumigate your house and treat the dogs at the same time the fleas will continue to drive you all nuts. I know- I've been there!
FRONTLINE IS THE BEST I NOW ITS EXPENSIVE BUT YOU CAN BY A SPRAY BOTTLE FOR 30 POUND THAT WILL LAST YOU .I HAVE 8 DOGS AND WE FRONTLINE THEM EVERY 3 MONTH WHEN WE WORM THEM IT'S A RUTIEN NOW NOT SEEN A FLEA ON MY DOGS FOR YEARS. HOPE THAT HELPS
Yeah the first answer is head on. You'd be surprised at how great Blue Dawn dish washing liquid works! Also...like an old wives tale treatment. I heard if you sprinkle salt in your carpet it helps. I'm not sure if its they try to eat it and it dehydrates them and kills them or if they just don't like.
go to the vets, my daughter uses 'stronghold' you can only buy this from the vets.
nothing natural seemed to work.
Hi how are you I tried all the natural ways girl mint etc treats containing these made by a company called mark and chapel they work to a point the only way to treat fleas is a proper flea treatment from your vet or try and find a holistic Vet ! I ment garlic!
... my other half being quite alternative... will not resort to bathing the dogs in ... what i call proper flea shampoo for dogs... in all fairness he has a point i have read up on it and the shampoo can be harmful stuff...
has anyone got any tried and tested remedies for fleas... the natural way! ... many thanks! :)
Answers:
when i had dogs i bought some garlic tablets and they never had fleas. they dont do the dogs any harm. the reason the fleas dont go on your dogs is that the smell of garlic comes through the pores and the fleas cant stand the smell of it
I have heard that Dawn Dish soap is pretty good for getting fleas off of animals, but I don't think it will do anything to keep the fleas off of the dogs. Really Front Line and Advantage monthly flea treatments are very good products and work very well at killing fleas and flea eggs as well as keeping fleas off of your dogs.
Mint!
Rub tea tree oil into their genitals
That's easy. You just get them between your thumbnails an squeeze.
Use tea tree oil shampoo and conditioner on your dogs. You could also spray them with tea tree dilluted in water before you go out. Totally harmless and 100% natural so will keep your dogs and your other half happy.
As far as getting fleas out of your carpet here is a method I read about once. Close Ali the shades in the room to make the room as dark as possible. Put a small lamp in the middle of the room. Remove the lamp shade and turn the lamp on. Then place a couple of bowls of soapy water around the lamp and close the door to the room. After 4 or 5 hours go check. The theory is that the fleas are attracted to the light, jump at it, then land in the soapy water. Hope this helps.
"natural flea control" search results:
http://www.dogpack.com/shop/grooming/nat...
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/xdpy/s...
http://www.homeovet.net/content/lifestyl...
http://www.dogpack.com/shop/grooming/dog...
http://www.petsafe-warehouse.com/flea_ti...
http://www.motherearthnews.com/livestock...
adding cider vinegar to their water regularly will help in the long term, 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water maybe, or you could spray them with it to help now. Also treat your furniture
You need to feed your dogs one garlic pill a day. The fleas do not like the odor and they will stay away from your dogs. It is perfectly harmless to your dogs.
You could try putting a peeled clove of garlic in their water bowl.
The fleas breed in the cracks in the floorboards, in soft furnishings etc, so you really need to use a flea spray that treats the flea eggs, something like 'Acclaim' and 'Frontline' for the dogs, both from the vet, otherwide you'll never get rid of the fleas.
After they've been eradicated, then try the natural remedies to keep the fleas off, but fleas are resilient little bugs and they won't go for a bit of mint or garlic. They might -eventually- stay off the dogs on a quasi-natural regime but all that will happen then is that you will start being bitten, and virulently, and the whole cycle will start all over again...
Sometimes a quick dose of chemicals, formulated for the job, is the best thing for an infestation, then try the natural methods to keep up the prevention afterwards.
Unless you fumigate your house and treat the dogs at the same time the fleas will continue to drive you all nuts. I know- I've been there!
FRONTLINE IS THE BEST I NOW ITS EXPENSIVE BUT YOU CAN BY A SPRAY BOTTLE FOR 30 POUND THAT WILL LAST YOU .I HAVE 8 DOGS AND WE FRONTLINE THEM EVERY 3 MONTH WHEN WE WORM THEM IT'S A RUTIEN NOW NOT SEEN A FLEA ON MY DOGS FOR YEARS. HOPE THAT HELPS
Yeah the first answer is head on. You'd be surprised at how great Blue Dawn dish washing liquid works! Also...like an old wives tale treatment. I heard if you sprinkle salt in your carpet it helps. I'm not sure if its they try to eat it and it dehydrates them and kills them or if they just don't like.
go to the vets, my daughter uses 'stronghold' you can only buy this from the vets.
nothing natural seemed to work.
Hi how are you I tried all the natural ways girl mint etc treats containing these made by a company called mark and chapel they work to a point the only way to treat fleas is a proper flea treatment from your vet or try and find a holistic Vet ! I ment garlic!
Flea treatment + Flea bath??
I gave my bichon a flea treatment (Frontline Plus) early last night. Today he has dead fleas on him. Is it ok to give him a flea bath just to make sure all of them are dead.
Plus, I think I may have picked some up from him yesterday. Will the dog flea shampoo be ok for me to use?
Answers:
NO NO NO! DO NOT bathe your dog for 48 hrs after Frontline! It will render it ineffective and you will still have to wait 30 days to reapply. Sure the fleas have moved to you...they're hungry. You should treat any area where your dog goes (bedding, carpet, furniture etc) with spray or fog your home then vaccum carpets and wash bedding to remove all the eggs and dead fleas.
Yes, use the dog flea shampoo on yourself.
It is totally safe and effective.
I would brush him and use a flea brush first, then wash later!
I really don't think you should use the flea shampoo. no. And yes i think it's ok for you to give him the bath.
There is probably fleas and flea eggs in your carpet. So get some kind of spray for your rug that kills fleas and their cycles. Flea eggs hatch every 30 days or so. Yes, you should give him another bath to make sure all the fleas are dead. Beacuse water dosn't alway kill them. so try to get all the fleas off of him.
Dont bath the dog in flea shampoo. Just use regular dog shampoo. You'll double dose your dog. I dont know about you I'd just take a shower and really rinse of well.
Do not use your dog's shampoo. It could permanently damage your hair. Use regular shampoo. If you found dead fleas, I would suggest brushing them out with a damp comb. A bath could wash out the treatment.
No if you read the instructions included inside the Frontline box you aren't supposed to bathe the dog for 48 hours after application or you'll wash it out. Even though frontline is waterproof you still have to give it a couple of days before you get the dog wet.
Buy a flea comb and use that on him, it will be more effective than using shampoo. Then after a couple of days then bathe him.
I wouldn't use the flea shampoo on yourself without reading it first, a lot of them say do not get on skin, which makes no sense since you use your hands to wash it in the dog. Always read the directions on the back.
A really good tip is to place a flea collar inside the vacuum bag so that any fleas or eggs that are sucked up into the vacuum will die. This won't work if you have a bagless vacuum.
if you put the frontline on him, there is no need for a flea bath. Just brush him really well. And, I have never heard of fleas staying on a clean person, you probably are just feeling 'crawly" from seeing all of his fleas. I wouldn't use the dog shampoo.. if you still feel icky just take a shower. Make sure you vacuum the house really well, as fleas will lay eggs in the carpet.
i would take him outside and let him run around for a bit first, to shake off the dead animals. Maybe a good idea to wait a bit longer. Don't forget to treat your house as well, or else they will all come back. I get all three of my cats and dog shaved every spring, wich helps with keeping the fleas of of them. I can only recommened it to you, and it puts a smile on the animals faces for they feel so much cooler and happier during the summer times.
Plus, I think I may have picked some up from him yesterday. Will the dog flea shampoo be ok for me to use?
Answers:
NO NO NO! DO NOT bathe your dog for 48 hrs after Frontline! It will render it ineffective and you will still have to wait 30 days to reapply. Sure the fleas have moved to you...they're hungry. You should treat any area where your dog goes (bedding, carpet, furniture etc) with spray or fog your home then vaccum carpets and wash bedding to remove all the eggs and dead fleas.
Yes, use the dog flea shampoo on yourself.
It is totally safe and effective.
I would brush him and use a flea brush first, then wash later!
I really don't think you should use the flea shampoo. no. And yes i think it's ok for you to give him the bath.
There is probably fleas and flea eggs in your carpet. So get some kind of spray for your rug that kills fleas and their cycles. Flea eggs hatch every 30 days or so. Yes, you should give him another bath to make sure all the fleas are dead. Beacuse water dosn't alway kill them. so try to get all the fleas off of him.
Dont bath the dog in flea shampoo. Just use regular dog shampoo. You'll double dose your dog. I dont know about you I'd just take a shower and really rinse of well.
Do not use your dog's shampoo. It could permanently damage your hair. Use regular shampoo. If you found dead fleas, I would suggest brushing them out with a damp comb. A bath could wash out the treatment.
No if you read the instructions included inside the Frontline box you aren't supposed to bathe the dog for 48 hours after application or you'll wash it out. Even though frontline is waterproof you still have to give it a couple of days before you get the dog wet.
Buy a flea comb and use that on him, it will be more effective than using shampoo. Then after a couple of days then bathe him.
I wouldn't use the flea shampoo on yourself without reading it first, a lot of them say do not get on skin, which makes no sense since you use your hands to wash it in the dog. Always read the directions on the back.
A really good tip is to place a flea collar inside the vacuum bag so that any fleas or eggs that are sucked up into the vacuum will die. This won't work if you have a bagless vacuum.
if you put the frontline on him, there is no need for a flea bath. Just brush him really well. And, I have never heard of fleas staying on a clean person, you probably are just feeling 'crawly" from seeing all of his fleas. I wouldn't use the dog shampoo.. if you still feel icky just take a shower. Make sure you vacuum the house really well, as fleas will lay eggs in the carpet.
i would take him outside and let him run around for a bit first, to shake off the dead animals. Maybe a good idea to wait a bit longer. Don't forget to treat your house as well, or else they will all come back. I get all three of my cats and dog shaved every spring, wich helps with keeping the fleas of of them. I can only recommened it to you, and it puts a smile on the animals faces for they feel so much cooler and happier during the summer times.
Flea problems?
I have two GS dogs. The fleas are out of control. I vacuum daily, treat the grass, bathe them in flea shampoo, us Advantix...What else can I do??
Answers:
The only thing you can do when the house gets that infested is to flea bomb the whole house with a couple of foggers!!Remember to take out all of the plates, cups, and cookware,...and anything else that you use with food!!Don't just cover them because the fogger goes where ever the air can go!!Next take all of your food out of the house or put what you can in the fridge and take out the rest!!Finally stay at a friends or a neighbors for 2 days after you fog!1 to fog and one day to open the windows and air the house out(BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY)!!This should do the trick then you can finally get you house back from the fleas!! P.S. Fog your car and spray the walk way by your house or you will bring them right back into the house and this will all be a waste of time!
keep using treatment
use special flea brushes, by the way it could be the air conditioning in your house and dry skin! Dont leave any shampoo residue and dont wash them too much!
take them to a vet and get special treatment for the dogs and for your house
you can put them in a tomato sauce bath-but, it only works on a dog with an out-of control smell- OR: you can go to the vet and ask for some special cream.
hey you have my name lol
sept i have one more S
Sarais
anyway... take em to the vet. and see what they say
i have been told you can put garlic in their food and that will keep fleas away. It does however take some time to get into their systems i'd say try it for about 2 weeks you can get garlic in the vitamins. do they stay in or out ? the garlic should work either way i use dawn dish soap and rubbing alcohol mix together half of each in abottle mixed that takes care for me i have one bull dog indoors but other dogs bring them to our yard we get a bug man to spray for us and never again had problems ,some times the spray at the stores just aint strong enough oh and avons skin so soft bath oil will work but you have to get it into their skin rub it into the skin not fur its oilly but it works
Answers:
The only thing you can do when the house gets that infested is to flea bomb the whole house with a couple of foggers!!Remember to take out all of the plates, cups, and cookware,...and anything else that you use with food!!Don't just cover them because the fogger goes where ever the air can go!!Next take all of your food out of the house or put what you can in the fridge and take out the rest!!Finally stay at a friends or a neighbors for 2 days after you fog!1 to fog and one day to open the windows and air the house out(BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY)!!This should do the trick then you can finally get you house back from the fleas!! P.S. Fog your car and spray the walk way by your house or you will bring them right back into the house and this will all be a waste of time!
keep using treatment
use special flea brushes, by the way it could be the air conditioning in your house and dry skin! Dont leave any shampoo residue and dont wash them too much!
take them to a vet and get special treatment for the dogs and for your house
you can put them in a tomato sauce bath-but, it only works on a dog with an out-of control smell- OR: you can go to the vet and ask for some special cream.
hey you have my name lol
sept i have one more S
Sarais
anyway... take em to the vet. and see what they say
i have been told you can put garlic in their food and that will keep fleas away. It does however take some time to get into their systems i'd say try it for about 2 weeks you can get garlic in the vitamins. do they stay in or out ? the garlic should work either way i use dawn dish soap and rubbing alcohol mix together half of each in abottle mixed that takes care for me i have one bull dog indoors but other dogs bring them to our yard we get a bug man to spray for us and never again had problems ,some times the spray at the stores just aint strong enough oh and avons skin so soft bath oil will work but you have to get it into their skin rub it into the skin not fur its oilly but it works
Flea dirt?
What exactly is flea dirt?
I was at the vet today picking up interceptor and heard a receptionist asking a client if she was seeing flea dirt.
Answers:
Plainly speaking, flea dirt is nothing more than flea feces. Flea feces is nothing more than blood. Nice huh?
If your animal has fleas you will be able to actually see the "dirt" residue after combing your animal. I hate fleas!
Flea dirt is feces left by fleas.
Yup, flea dirt is just flea poopie. If you part the hair on any part of your pet and see little black specks, that is a sign that your pet has fleas.
Flea Poop...
I was at the vet today picking up interceptor and heard a receptionist asking a client if she was seeing flea dirt.
Answers:
Plainly speaking, flea dirt is nothing more than flea feces. Flea feces is nothing more than blood. Nice huh?
If your animal has fleas you will be able to actually see the "dirt" residue after combing your animal. I hate fleas!
Flea dirt is feces left by fleas.
Yup, flea dirt is just flea poopie. If you part the hair on any part of your pet and see little black specks, that is a sign that your pet has fleas.
Flea Poop...
Flea control?
We have two dogs, a boxer/rott mix, and a Siberian Husky. We have tried Advantix and Frontline, and both flea controls worked for about 2 days, and the fleas are right back on them. Our carpet and their beds are cleaned regularly, and we have bombed our house. Still, the fleas just wont die. Does anyone have any other suggestions because we are at wits end and our vet just keeps recommending Frontline even though it does not seem to be helping at all. This is the first summer we've ever had a problem with this, we just moved to a new area, I dont know if that has anything to do with the problem though. Have fleas ever been this big of a problem for anyone else? If so, what did you do to get rid of them?
Answers:
First let me tell you that I own a pest control company and what I will recommend is the complete treatment that should help you completely get rid of the fleas.
First, treat the pet with Capstar. This is a pill that you get from the vet that will kill all of the fleas that get on the animal for the first 24 hours. Second, use either Frontline or Advantage, these can also be purchased from the vet. Frontline can be used on pets 12 weeks old or older. Advantage can be used on animals as young as 6 weeks. If the pet is old enough for either product, switch back and forth between the two. One month use one, the next use the other. The reason I recommend this is that there are two main types of fleas that infest pets. One product works better on the first type and the other product works better on the second type. By using both, you make sure you have covered all your bases.
Once the pet has been treated, you must treat your home and yard. The best products to do this would include not only a killing agent, but also a sterilization agent. Inside, I would use Ultracide, if you can get it. (Many on line sites sell it.) Follow the instructions on the label! Wash all animal鈥檚 bedding and vacuum frequently. I WOULD NOT put any chemical in the vacuum bag or catch container, other than a flea collar. It is too dangerous to risk the vacuum accidentally spreading that chemical through the air. Throw out the vacuum bag or dump the catch container after every vacuuming. You can never vacuum too much! DO NOT STEAM CLEAN YOUR RUGS! This can hatch flea eggs and make your problem worse.
Outside I would use Demon WP mixed with Gentrol or Nylar, carefully following label instructions. Treat the entire yard, paying special attention to under bushes and low hanging branches. Most of these products can be bought at any Do-It-Yourself Pest Control company either on line or in a store.
Treating your house and yard is just as important as treating the pet!
It is also very important to stay away from the grocery store or box store products like Zodiac or Hartz. Many of these products can cause severe allergic reactions in animals.
I have the same problem with my two big dogs! I have them on Advantix every 2.5 weeks it gets so bad, however, we traced the problem to the grass outside. The fleas start out lower than their elbows and then migrate to the carpet as soon as they're tracked inside. My suggestion would be to spray your yard every 1.5-2 weeks, or if you live in an apartment area, ask them to do it. Trust me, if you raise a big enough stink, and show them you're doing everything on your end to prevent the fleas, they WILL do it.
i would treat your yard. fleas can still jump on him from outside.
my dog has advantix, but sometimes, i'll still catch a flea or two on him, after we take a walk. if they bite him, they will die, and they certainly wont have babies or lay eggs.
try adams yard spray. i got it at petsmart. its about $17 and it hooks up to your hose. it totally helps, but you have to spray once a month.
Fleas are hard to deal with... frontline may not work for your animals - if frontline is not placed directly on the skin it is not effective. Try a flea collar and ask your vet about an alternative flea treatment.. Adams flea spray is great and can be purchased at any pet store... simply spray your animal and watch the fleas drops.. and it can be done daily :) Good luck
I would call the 800 number on the Frontline box or call your Vet to get that number if you can't find it on the box. They at least will replace the Frontline you have used at no cost to you. Maybe you have many fleas in your yard, but the Frontline or Advantix should have taken care of them. Please call and see what they say. They may want you to use there product more often, like every 10 days or so, until you get rid of the fleas. Call and they will probably give you enough product to take care of your problem. that has been my experience when I worked for a Vet.
Try Advantage. It is a little more costly but is the only one that does the trick for my beagle and pit bull! Also, try eucalyptus branches around the area they sleep in and in the yard. You can also purchase eucalyptus oil from a health store and prepare a solution with a few drops of the oil with water, soak a bandanna in this solution and then tie it around their neck. My beagle doesn't like the smell but the pit bull doesn't mind it and it sure does deflect the fleas!
The answers here are correct. You need to treat the yard. They are carrying in fleas from the outside. And it's true, if you don't get the Frontline directly on the skin, the absorption is minimized. If you are seeing fleas after two days, it is probably new eggs hatching, but they too will die. One thing you can do is sprinkle Borax( the laundry powder) down once a week. Leave it overnight and then sweep/ vacuum it up. It won't hurt your pets or ruin your carpet, but it does kill fleas. You can also spray your pets with Skin So Soft from Avon, and diluted olive oil works. just a light spraying will work. It also makes the pets' skin shine and won't harm them.
You have to get rid of the fleas on your pets, in your house, and in your yard. THEN, if your pets go other places-- like to the park-- they can pick them up and bring them back and the problem starts up all over again.
Here's what you do: First, spray your yard WELL (front and back and concentrate on areas of sand, mulch, and gravel-- fleas like it here) with a multi-insect killer. You can get a bottle at Home Depot and attach it to your hose. Check the label and make sure it kills fleas. You will need to re-spray once a month.) Take plants out of your house. Plan some place to go with your dogs for the day-- maybe a friend's house, maybe the park?-- and turn your HEAT on as high as it will go and close all windows. Fleas will all die. They can't live above like... 90 degrees, I think. This will cook them without using chemicals.
Take your pets and do whatever you want for a couple of hours, then take them to PetSmart and have them bathed and flea-dipped. Go home, open the windows, and vacuum well. Do NOT throw the vacuum bag in the trash! It could have flea eggs in it! Put it in a trash bag, tie it, and put it in the freezer. This will kill the eggs.
Now, you should have a flea-free house and yard. Capstar is a product that kills fleas instantly on dogs-- they will fall off in about 30 minutes. If you seem to get a re-infestation, you can try that. Frontline PLUS is what you need also. Then, don't let strange dogs come over or let your dogs go to places where they will pick up more.
Also, if your dogs are itching, it may be from the flea bites and not fleas. You can spray an anti-itch treatment on them.
First, do like Katslookup suggests. You should also start putting a small bit of garlic in the dogs food. Smash one clove and mix it with canned food or mix it with water or gravy for dry food. Add garlic once a day until fleas no longer hop on earth. A small clove should be good for one feeding of both dogs.
I live in NW Oklahoma and the fleas this year are the worst we have seen in years! I am head of the pet department in my town and people are telling me, and I found out myself, that everyone is having to spray their yards to any success at controlling them. I, too, gave up and got Frontline from my vet even though we carry several lines at the store i work at, and had no success either until I sprayed my yard with a new yard and kennel spray we got in. You just hook it up to your garden hose and spray, but any lawn care store will also carry granuals that you can sprinkle, or liquids you measure and spray! People are finally having success by doing both things, the drops and the yard coverage.
Answers:
First let me tell you that I own a pest control company and what I will recommend is the complete treatment that should help you completely get rid of the fleas.
First, treat the pet with Capstar. This is a pill that you get from the vet that will kill all of the fleas that get on the animal for the first 24 hours. Second, use either Frontline or Advantage, these can also be purchased from the vet. Frontline can be used on pets 12 weeks old or older. Advantage can be used on animals as young as 6 weeks. If the pet is old enough for either product, switch back and forth between the two. One month use one, the next use the other. The reason I recommend this is that there are two main types of fleas that infest pets. One product works better on the first type and the other product works better on the second type. By using both, you make sure you have covered all your bases.
Once the pet has been treated, you must treat your home and yard. The best products to do this would include not only a killing agent, but also a sterilization agent. Inside, I would use Ultracide, if you can get it. (Many on line sites sell it.) Follow the instructions on the label! Wash all animal鈥檚 bedding and vacuum frequently. I WOULD NOT put any chemical in the vacuum bag or catch container, other than a flea collar. It is too dangerous to risk the vacuum accidentally spreading that chemical through the air. Throw out the vacuum bag or dump the catch container after every vacuuming. You can never vacuum too much! DO NOT STEAM CLEAN YOUR RUGS! This can hatch flea eggs and make your problem worse.
Outside I would use Demon WP mixed with Gentrol or Nylar, carefully following label instructions. Treat the entire yard, paying special attention to under bushes and low hanging branches. Most of these products can be bought at any Do-It-Yourself Pest Control company either on line or in a store.
Treating your house and yard is just as important as treating the pet!
It is also very important to stay away from the grocery store or box store products like Zodiac or Hartz. Many of these products can cause severe allergic reactions in animals.
I have the same problem with my two big dogs! I have them on Advantix every 2.5 weeks it gets so bad, however, we traced the problem to the grass outside. The fleas start out lower than their elbows and then migrate to the carpet as soon as they're tracked inside. My suggestion would be to spray your yard every 1.5-2 weeks, or if you live in an apartment area, ask them to do it. Trust me, if you raise a big enough stink, and show them you're doing everything on your end to prevent the fleas, they WILL do it.
i would treat your yard. fleas can still jump on him from outside.
my dog has advantix, but sometimes, i'll still catch a flea or two on him, after we take a walk. if they bite him, they will die, and they certainly wont have babies or lay eggs.
try adams yard spray. i got it at petsmart. its about $17 and it hooks up to your hose. it totally helps, but you have to spray once a month.
Fleas are hard to deal with... frontline may not work for your animals - if frontline is not placed directly on the skin it is not effective. Try a flea collar and ask your vet about an alternative flea treatment.. Adams flea spray is great and can be purchased at any pet store... simply spray your animal and watch the fleas drops.. and it can be done daily :) Good luck
I would call the 800 number on the Frontline box or call your Vet to get that number if you can't find it on the box. They at least will replace the Frontline you have used at no cost to you. Maybe you have many fleas in your yard, but the Frontline or Advantix should have taken care of them. Please call and see what they say. They may want you to use there product more often, like every 10 days or so, until you get rid of the fleas. Call and they will probably give you enough product to take care of your problem. that has been my experience when I worked for a Vet.
Try Advantage. It is a little more costly but is the only one that does the trick for my beagle and pit bull! Also, try eucalyptus branches around the area they sleep in and in the yard. You can also purchase eucalyptus oil from a health store and prepare a solution with a few drops of the oil with water, soak a bandanna in this solution and then tie it around their neck. My beagle doesn't like the smell but the pit bull doesn't mind it and it sure does deflect the fleas!
The answers here are correct. You need to treat the yard. They are carrying in fleas from the outside. And it's true, if you don't get the Frontline directly on the skin, the absorption is minimized. If you are seeing fleas after two days, it is probably new eggs hatching, but they too will die. One thing you can do is sprinkle Borax( the laundry powder) down once a week. Leave it overnight and then sweep/ vacuum it up. It won't hurt your pets or ruin your carpet, but it does kill fleas. You can also spray your pets with Skin So Soft from Avon, and diluted olive oil works. just a light spraying will work. It also makes the pets' skin shine and won't harm them.
You have to get rid of the fleas on your pets, in your house, and in your yard. THEN, if your pets go other places-- like to the park-- they can pick them up and bring them back and the problem starts up all over again.
Here's what you do: First, spray your yard WELL (front and back and concentrate on areas of sand, mulch, and gravel-- fleas like it here) with a multi-insect killer. You can get a bottle at Home Depot and attach it to your hose. Check the label and make sure it kills fleas. You will need to re-spray once a month.) Take plants out of your house. Plan some place to go with your dogs for the day-- maybe a friend's house, maybe the park?-- and turn your HEAT on as high as it will go and close all windows. Fleas will all die. They can't live above like... 90 degrees, I think. This will cook them without using chemicals.
Take your pets and do whatever you want for a couple of hours, then take them to PetSmart and have them bathed and flea-dipped. Go home, open the windows, and vacuum well. Do NOT throw the vacuum bag in the trash! It could have flea eggs in it! Put it in a trash bag, tie it, and put it in the freezer. This will kill the eggs.
Now, you should have a flea-free house and yard. Capstar is a product that kills fleas instantly on dogs-- they will fall off in about 30 minutes. If you seem to get a re-infestation, you can try that. Frontline PLUS is what you need also. Then, don't let strange dogs come over or let your dogs go to places where they will pick up more.
Also, if your dogs are itching, it may be from the flea bites and not fleas. You can spray an anti-itch treatment on them.
First, do like Katslookup suggests. You should also start putting a small bit of garlic in the dogs food. Smash one clove and mix it with canned food or mix it with water or gravy for dry food. Add garlic once a day until fleas no longer hop on earth. A small clove should be good for one feeding of both dogs.
I live in NW Oklahoma and the fleas this year are the worst we have seen in years! I am head of the pet department in my town and people are telling me, and I found out myself, that everyone is having to spray their yards to any success at controlling them. I, too, gave up and got Frontline from my vet even though we carry several lines at the store i work at, and had no success either until I sprayed my yard with a new yard and kennel spray we got in. You just hook it up to your garden hose and spray, but any lawn care store will also carry granuals that you can sprinkle, or liquids you measure and spray! People are finally having success by doing both things, the drops and the yard coverage.
Fixing a 4 year old male dog...will he still mark in the house?
We are interested in adopting a 4 year old male from our local Humane Society. He will be fixed but my concern is he will still mark inside the house...btw, he is a Welshi-Corgi mix...very sweet...
Answers:
He might, and he might not. Do you have other dogs? Sometimes male dogs mark because you have other dogs. Sometimes male dogs mark because they just do. This may be a habit of his, or it may not be. You will have to watch him carefully. Why not crate train him when you get him, then you can keep him in his crate when you are not at home if this is something you are worried about until you know for sure.
Our male dog would mark when he was angry about something just to show us he could. He would mark when we got a new dog just because he could. He would go years without marking then start again. Go figure.
As long as it hasn't become an established behavior he probably won't. It takes about a month after they are neutered for the hormones to be gone from their systems. You may have to train him like you would a puppy, as he might not be properly housebroken. Use the crate training method, walk him frequently, feed meals at same time each day, don't let him out of your sight until trained, etc.
He might.. He might not.. It's likely that he'll try.. You correct him a few times and he will stop.. It's more of a habit once they are neutered.. You just need to break the habit.
Some males never mark in the house - so you if he hasn't before you are in luck.
Even if he has marked in eh house before - you are at an advantage - since your house will be new territory to him, he will not have the behavior of having marked in it before.
Get him neutered before you bring him home %26 then watch him CLOSELY for the first several wks.
He may try to do it - but you will be there to catch him FAST!
Tell him "NO!!" Which will probably scare the dickens out of him - then take him outside immediately %26 let him do his thing. Then praise him profusely. This will be a good start.
I would definitely keep him on a leash or in sight when in the house for the first couple of weeks.
You want to catch him in the act if he tries it before he develops a habit.
By the way - even dogs who are perfectly house trained will make a mistake or two in a new place - this is also a good reason to keep a new dog in sight at all times. Even if it's a female.
Good luck to you!
My friend shows Corgis %26 she always has a male for a house dog (un-neutered.) She has never had a dog mark in her house! They are very nice dogs!
Neutering has no effect on a dog's inclination to mark, nor spaying a b?tch either for that matter. This is a matter of training.
(Note: "dog" is a male canine, "b?tch" is a female)
I suggest that when you get the dog home you give him some water, wait for 10 minutes then take him outside. Hopefully he will go.
We have trained quite a few Schipperkes to ring a set of jingle bells hung on the door handle. We do the above but when we take them to the door we take their paw and bang the bells, praise them and take them outside. After a few weeks, they usually start going to the door and with a week or so after that, they figure out that ringing the bell gets them outside.
Answers:
He might, and he might not. Do you have other dogs? Sometimes male dogs mark because you have other dogs. Sometimes male dogs mark because they just do. This may be a habit of his, or it may not be. You will have to watch him carefully. Why not crate train him when you get him, then you can keep him in his crate when you are not at home if this is something you are worried about until you know for sure.
Our male dog would mark when he was angry about something just to show us he could. He would mark when we got a new dog just because he could. He would go years without marking then start again. Go figure.
As long as it hasn't become an established behavior he probably won't. It takes about a month after they are neutered for the hormones to be gone from their systems. You may have to train him like you would a puppy, as he might not be properly housebroken. Use the crate training method, walk him frequently, feed meals at same time each day, don't let him out of your sight until trained, etc.
He might.. He might not.. It's likely that he'll try.. You correct him a few times and he will stop.. It's more of a habit once they are neutered.. You just need to break the habit.
Some males never mark in the house - so you if he hasn't before you are in luck.
Even if he has marked in eh house before - you are at an advantage - since your house will be new territory to him, he will not have the behavior of having marked in it before.
Get him neutered before you bring him home %26 then watch him CLOSELY for the first several wks.
He may try to do it - but you will be there to catch him FAST!
Tell him "NO!!" Which will probably scare the dickens out of him - then take him outside immediately %26 let him do his thing. Then praise him profusely. This will be a good start.
I would definitely keep him on a leash or in sight when in the house for the first couple of weeks.
You want to catch him in the act if he tries it before he develops a habit.
By the way - even dogs who are perfectly house trained will make a mistake or two in a new place - this is also a good reason to keep a new dog in sight at all times. Even if it's a female.
Good luck to you!
My friend shows Corgis %26 she always has a male for a house dog (un-neutered.) She has never had a dog mark in her house! They are very nice dogs!
Neutering has no effect on a dog's inclination to mark, nor spaying a b?tch either for that matter. This is a matter of training.
(Note: "dog" is a male canine, "b?tch" is a female)
I suggest that when you get the dog home you give him some water, wait for 10 minutes then take him outside. Hopefully he will go.
We have trained quite a few Schipperkes to ring a set of jingle bells hung on the door handle. We do the above but when we take them to the door we take their paw and bang the bells, praise them and take them outside. After a few weeks, they usually start going to the door and with a week or so after that, they figure out that ringing the bell gets them outside.
Five month old puppy has pinkish-colored eye discharge.?
I have in the past asked the vet if teary eyes are common in Cavalier King Charles Spaniels. She said it is not uncommon. Last night, the discharge increased in amount and now is pinkish rather than clear in appearance. Does this sound like an allergy or illness? Should I take her to the vet ASAP or just monitor it for a few days?
Answers:
Conjunctivitis is an inflammation or infection of the conjunctiva, the tissue lining the eyelids and attaching to the eyeball near the cornea. The conjunctiva can become irritated due to allergies induced by pollens, grasses, etc., or from infections caused by viruses, bacteria, or fungi. If the white portion of the eyeball (sclera) is also inflamed, this condition is occasionally referred to as 'pink eye.' Conjunctivitis is the most common ailment affecting the eye of the dog.
What are the symptoms?
The symptoms of conjunctivitis vary depending on the cause. Typically, both allergies and infections cause a severe redness or 'meaty' appearance of the conjunctiva. This is caused by edema or fluid build-up and an increase in the size and number of blood vessels within the tissue. Either allergies or infections cause the eye to discharge or 'weep.'
The consistency of the discharge often helps determine its cause. Usually infections caused by bacteria, fungi, etc., create a thick yellow or greenish eye discharge. The eyelids may actually stick together when held shut. This results from the accumulation of white blood cells or 'pus' excreted into the area in an effort to fight off the infection. This type of discharge is also typical of a condition called keratoconjunctivitis sicca, or 'dry eye,' in which insufficient tears are produced. Allergies, on the other hand, generally cause a clear or watery discharge. Regardless of the cause, a patient with conjunctivitis will often squint and/or keep the third eyelid partially covering the eyeball. Conjunctivitis is often painful, causing a dog to paw at or rub the eye against objects such as your leg or the carpet.
What are the risks?
Normally, conjunctivitis is not life threatening, however, in advanced cases of infection, the organisms can spread and affect other structures of the eye. Vision could become impaired. In addition, infections or foreign bodies may cause corneal ulcers which are extremely serious conditions. Conjunctivitis may also be a symptom of a more serious disease such as canine distemper. As in humans, some infections can be transmitted to other individuals or littermates. Allergies are not contagious and therefore pose no threat to other dogs.
What is the management?
All cases of conjunctivitis should be treated at once. A culture and sensitivity test may be necessary to determine if bacteria are the cause, and if so, what medication should be used for treatment. Scrapings of the conjunctiva can be made and examined to test for various viral infections.
Eye drops or ointments are usually the drugs of choice. Eye drops are watery solutions that must be applied every few hours, while ointments last longer and are usually only applied two to three times per day.
If the cause is suspected to be allergy, then various medications are available containing anti-inflammatories, usually hydrocortisones. If the cause is an infection, then bactericidal or fungicidal ointments or solutions may be applied. In severe cases, oral antibiotics are used in addition to the topical preparations. Most cases will respond to treatment, however, it may take one to two weeks to fully recover. In general, treatment is continued for several days after the eye regains its normal appearance.
Many eye ointments containing hydrocortisones and antibiotics are available and are frequently used when the exact cause of the problem is unknown. It is important, however, not to use hydrocortisone-containing agents if a corneal ulcer is present. Hydrocortisone, although great at minimizing eye inflammation, may actually hinder the healing of or worsen an ulcerated cornea.
okay what i say you do is leave it there for one more day (but put cold water on it) and if that doesnt work than YES take it to the vet.
You can try flushing it with plain saline (contact solution) and see if it helps! If it doesn't clear up in 24 hours, take her to the vet!
In that breed, it could be the beginning of a "cherry eye" which is just a inflammation of the nictating membrane (3rd eyelid) or even proptosed eye.
Take It to the vet asap U can never be to sure,
Answers:
Conjunctivitis is an inflammation or infection of the conjunctiva, the tissue lining the eyelids and attaching to the eyeball near the cornea. The conjunctiva can become irritated due to allergies induced by pollens, grasses, etc., or from infections caused by viruses, bacteria, or fungi. If the white portion of the eyeball (sclera) is also inflamed, this condition is occasionally referred to as 'pink eye.' Conjunctivitis is the most common ailment affecting the eye of the dog.
What are the symptoms?
The symptoms of conjunctivitis vary depending on the cause. Typically, both allergies and infections cause a severe redness or 'meaty' appearance of the conjunctiva. This is caused by edema or fluid build-up and an increase in the size and number of blood vessels within the tissue. Either allergies or infections cause the eye to discharge or 'weep.'
The consistency of the discharge often helps determine its cause. Usually infections caused by bacteria, fungi, etc., create a thick yellow or greenish eye discharge. The eyelids may actually stick together when held shut. This results from the accumulation of white blood cells or 'pus' excreted into the area in an effort to fight off the infection. This type of discharge is also typical of a condition called keratoconjunctivitis sicca, or 'dry eye,' in which insufficient tears are produced. Allergies, on the other hand, generally cause a clear or watery discharge. Regardless of the cause, a patient with conjunctivitis will often squint and/or keep the third eyelid partially covering the eyeball. Conjunctivitis is often painful, causing a dog to paw at or rub the eye against objects such as your leg or the carpet.
What are the risks?
Normally, conjunctivitis is not life threatening, however, in advanced cases of infection, the organisms can spread and affect other structures of the eye. Vision could become impaired. In addition, infections or foreign bodies may cause corneal ulcers which are extremely serious conditions. Conjunctivitis may also be a symptom of a more serious disease such as canine distemper. As in humans, some infections can be transmitted to other individuals or littermates. Allergies are not contagious and therefore pose no threat to other dogs.
What is the management?
All cases of conjunctivitis should be treated at once. A culture and sensitivity test may be necessary to determine if bacteria are the cause, and if so, what medication should be used for treatment. Scrapings of the conjunctiva can be made and examined to test for various viral infections.
Eye drops or ointments are usually the drugs of choice. Eye drops are watery solutions that must be applied every few hours, while ointments last longer and are usually only applied two to three times per day.
If the cause is suspected to be allergy, then various medications are available containing anti-inflammatories, usually hydrocortisones. If the cause is an infection, then bactericidal or fungicidal ointments or solutions may be applied. In severe cases, oral antibiotics are used in addition to the topical preparations. Most cases will respond to treatment, however, it may take one to two weeks to fully recover. In general, treatment is continued for several days after the eye regains its normal appearance.
Many eye ointments containing hydrocortisones and antibiotics are available and are frequently used when the exact cause of the problem is unknown. It is important, however, not to use hydrocortisone-containing agents if a corneal ulcer is present. Hydrocortisone, although great at minimizing eye inflammation, may actually hinder the healing of or worsen an ulcerated cornea.
okay what i say you do is leave it there for one more day (but put cold water on it) and if that doesnt work than YES take it to the vet.
You can try flushing it with plain saline (contact solution) and see if it helps! If it doesn't clear up in 24 hours, take her to the vet!
In that breed, it could be the beginning of a "cherry eye" which is just a inflammation of the nictating membrane (3rd eyelid) or even proptosed eye.
Take It to the vet asap U can never be to sure,
Fishy Dog?
My dog and I went to the dog park and last time he was there we were trying to get him to swim in a pond they have there with a brittany spaniel -but he was too afraid. This time he went in all by himself- stuck fairly close to shore but I was proud of him...
Only problem is, toward the end of our swim I noticed some dead fish floating. There's nothing wrong with the pond- it's a man-made pond and people have brought fish from local lakes and put them in there so they could go fishing at the pond, Well it was either too hot this week and they died or they died because they have little food source in the pond.
But still now my dog smells 'fishy'- I tried baby powder- but he still stank so I gave him a bath- he's still a little smellly. Any suggestions to get rid of it?
He won't get sick from being near the dead fish or anything will he? He didn't eat any of it (I watched him like a hawk and shouted 'no!' whenever he got close).
Answers:
I would try a rinse of 50/50 vinegar and water. Vinegar is known as acetic acid, while it is a weak acid, it's strong enough to "kill" a lot of organic organisms/ destroy organic molecules. The fishy smell is due to the presence of amines and I bet vinegar would be able to knock those amines out. When diluted, it is not dangerous to leave on your dog. I would go to the store, buy the big liter size (or larger) bring it home, wash him, then as a final rinse, dump the 50/50 mixture all over him (careful with his face and eyes - you don't want to get it in there just like you don't want soap in there). Let him shake, rinse again, let him shake and dry. While I have not personally tried this, vinegar is a natural cleaner for a lot of stuff. Amines tend to react with acids and acetic acid (vinegar) is an acid. Let me know if you try it and if it works!
And yes - watch out for that algae!
When a lot of fish die suddenly in very warm weather, it is often due to very low oxygen levels in the water. However, dead fish decompose and smell fishy - and this is from bacteria.
I'd bathe him again with a detergent-based soap (a doggie shampoo should be fine and will kill the bacteria). The bigger risk is if he drank the water or if he has any open wounds or cuts. If he gets sick, take him to a vet right away and explain what happened. If he has any cuts, abrasions or breaks in his skin, treat him with a triple antibiotic ointment or neosporine (just like you use) to prevent an infection.
Chances are he will be fine.
I got an article to watch for blue algae, it blooms at different times of the year in different areas but it is toxic to dogs when its blooming. I would be worried if I didnt know the reason for the dead fish but if your confident the water is safe why shouldnt your dog have a swim? Since fish tend to be oily ,I would get a doggie degreaser, that might help. Skunk spray is oil based as well so maybe some of those remedies would help.
Hi,
Before you let your dog swim in any body of water, be on the lookout for blue-green algae which can kill dogs in a short period of time. I don't mean to alarm you, but it is the season for blue-green algae blooms and dead fish can be a sign. Check out this page on my website about it.
http://www.standardpoodlesusa.com/blue-g...
Only problem is, toward the end of our swim I noticed some dead fish floating. There's nothing wrong with the pond- it's a man-made pond and people have brought fish from local lakes and put them in there so they could go fishing at the pond, Well it was either too hot this week and they died or they died because they have little food source in the pond.
But still now my dog smells 'fishy'- I tried baby powder- but he still stank so I gave him a bath- he's still a little smellly. Any suggestions to get rid of it?
He won't get sick from being near the dead fish or anything will he? He didn't eat any of it (I watched him like a hawk and shouted 'no!' whenever he got close).
Answers:
I would try a rinse of 50/50 vinegar and water. Vinegar is known as acetic acid, while it is a weak acid, it's strong enough to "kill" a lot of organic organisms/ destroy organic molecules. The fishy smell is due to the presence of amines and I bet vinegar would be able to knock those amines out. When diluted, it is not dangerous to leave on your dog. I would go to the store, buy the big liter size (or larger) bring it home, wash him, then as a final rinse, dump the 50/50 mixture all over him (careful with his face and eyes - you don't want to get it in there just like you don't want soap in there). Let him shake, rinse again, let him shake and dry. While I have not personally tried this, vinegar is a natural cleaner for a lot of stuff. Amines tend to react with acids and acetic acid (vinegar) is an acid. Let me know if you try it and if it works!
And yes - watch out for that algae!
When a lot of fish die suddenly in very warm weather, it is often due to very low oxygen levels in the water. However, dead fish decompose and smell fishy - and this is from bacteria.
I'd bathe him again with a detergent-based soap (a doggie shampoo should be fine and will kill the bacteria). The bigger risk is if he drank the water or if he has any open wounds or cuts. If he gets sick, take him to a vet right away and explain what happened. If he has any cuts, abrasions or breaks in his skin, treat him with a triple antibiotic ointment or neosporine (just like you use) to prevent an infection.
Chances are he will be fine.
I got an article to watch for blue algae, it blooms at different times of the year in different areas but it is toxic to dogs when its blooming. I would be worried if I didnt know the reason for the dead fish but if your confident the water is safe why shouldnt your dog have a swim? Since fish tend to be oily ,I would get a doggie degreaser, that might help. Skunk spray is oil based as well so maybe some of those remedies would help.
Hi,
Before you let your dog swim in any body of water, be on the lookout for blue-green algae which can kill dogs in a short period of time. I don't mean to alarm you, but it is the season for blue-green algae blooms and dead fish can be a sign. Check out this page on my website about it.
http://www.standardpoodlesusa.com/blue-g...
First puppy shot question?
Our little boy is a 7 wk old Australian shepherd and he just got his first set of distemper shots yesterday. Today he is so moody, and depressed it seems. Is this normal? Is he still in pain, or mad at me. This is my first puppy, and if he is in pain I just didn't want to be trying to play with him or worry that something else is wrong. THANKS EVERYONE
Answers:
Some dogs seem to be a little more sensitive to their parvo/distemper shots than others. Let him rest and if he isn't doing better by tomorrow take him to see the veterinarian.
He will need two or three more puppy shots in the next couple of months to get his anibodies built up against parvo and distemper which is the two most needed since both can be fatal very quickly.
In fact, puppies are very susceptible to those two diseases and it is strongly recommended, other than his own back yard, he isn't taken visiting anywhere such as pet stores or parks until his third vaccination, which is when he has a stronger immune system.
he is probably sore from the injections !!
i wouldn't worry the same thing happened to my toy poodle if they used a live vac it can make them feel down
Maybe he isn't Moody or depressed you are just feeling guilty for taken your dog in for them to inflect pain on him lol. He should be fine if not then maybe you should call your vet he might had had a allergic reaction to the shot. You can call and ask the reception's working there and she in turn can ask the vet for you . That will put your mind at ease
Answers:
Some dogs seem to be a little more sensitive to their parvo/distemper shots than others. Let him rest and if he isn't doing better by tomorrow take him to see the veterinarian.
He will need two or three more puppy shots in the next couple of months to get his anibodies built up against parvo and distemper which is the two most needed since both can be fatal very quickly.
In fact, puppies are very susceptible to those two diseases and it is strongly recommended, other than his own back yard, he isn't taken visiting anywhere such as pet stores or parks until his third vaccination, which is when he has a stronger immune system.
he is probably sore from the injections !!
i wouldn't worry the same thing happened to my toy poodle if they used a live vac it can make them feel down
Maybe he isn't Moody or depressed you are just feeling guilty for taken your dog in for them to inflect pain on him lol. He should be fine if not then maybe you should call your vet he might had had a allergic reaction to the shot. You can call and ask the reception's working there and she in turn can ask the vet for you . That will put your mind at ease
First Night with A Young Puppy?
We are picking up our new puppy tonight and the puppy is only 6 weeks old. We do not want to let the dog sleep in the bed with us, so we have a wire crate that we want to use as it's home.
We want to make this transition as easy as possible for the little gal, and were wondering if it would be a good idea to sleep on the floor next to the crate for the first night.or should we just bite the bullet and sleep in our bed and deal with the yelping all night? We are going to have the crate next to the bed if we do that.
Do you think if we sleep on the floor by the dog...will that set us up for failure?
Any other tips for the first night with a new puppy would be appreciated.
Thank you
Answers:
1) See if you can get the owners to give you a toy, blanket, or towel that she's been with so far. Since it will remind her of mom and littermates, it may ease her transition. Take one with you and try to get the smell of her current home or siblings on it (just in case the owner doesn't have something).
2) Go to PetSmart (if you can before you get her) and look at the Life Stages brand of toys. They have one that you can heat up in the microwave a bit to soothe new puppies. If you can't do this, try to find a medicinal hot water bottle at a drugstore if you don't have one, and put warm water in it and wrap in a towel to put with her.
3) Play with her A LOT before bed - get her to run around and wear her out. Tired dogs settle down more easily.
4) Set up her crate in the room where you'll sleep - preferably in a spot where she can see you. Expect that she'll cry some (about 10-30 minutes, usually) but she should settle down after that. If she wakes during the night and cries, take her out to potty - pups can't hold it very long and she may be 3-4 months before she can hold it overnight.
your pup should be with her mother and litter mates until she is at least 8 weeks old
it is against the law to buy or adopt a dog under the age of 8 weeks
I think maybe a pet taxi crate with covered sides would have been better . I think there will be yelping either way cause she misses her mom and brothers and sisters . but go to bed like normal and tell her good night and go to sleep . she should be okay in a few days . good luck the first night is always the hardest .
.just what "ann s" said. 6 weeks is too young!!!
No matter what you do a new puppy is going to cry the first week at least but they get used to it. Something that worked with my puppy was putting a clock that ticks next to the kennel and it soothes them. Eventually they will just get used to it and start going in the kennel on their own once it's bed time. Eventually you can even put a puppy pillow down and start having her get used to sleeping on the pillow instead of the crate.
When I brought my puppy home, the breeders recommended sleeping close to the puppy's crate. I tried this and he still cried all night long. The next night, I slept in a separate room and he did much better.
Our puppy, which we no longer have, slept in his plastic crate the first night we got him. He was very shy (yours willl be too probably) I put a soft blanket and newspaper inside and left a small light on. He did fine,but I would suggest waking up earlier than usual to take her out to pee or poop.
Put a warm blanket in there that she can chew on. Under the blanket put a warm ( not hot) squishy bottle of water under the sheets. Also a place a ticking clock under there or next to the crate. The clock is like mommas heart beat and the bottle is the warmth of momma. This will give some comfort to the lil blind gal.
I brought my pup home at 7 weeks... for the first night I slept on the floor with her. I didn't have a crate for about a week, and the yelping broke my heart!! =) She adapted quickly to sleeping on her own in a crate. Good luck to you and lots of patience!!!!
Make sure the crate has a comfy blanket in it. Put a hot water bottle and ticking alarm clock to make the puppy hear it's mother's heartbeat and feel her warmth. If that doesn't help your new baby, put a radio very near the crate so the dog can listen to very quiet and restful music. That helped my new pup once. Don't sleep near or fuss with the dog at night or when your going away from the house. She will develope separation anxiety, then you will have a serious problem. She should learn to love her crate. My dog (from long ago) loved his crate so much that he would go into it and shut the door himself.
I would put her in the crate with something soft maybe a stuffed animal. I did that with my puppy and she didn't really cry. I also put a blanket over the crate so she felt safe and hidden. I kept the door uncovered. She will get used to it and you won't have to train her twice. Remember that she is too little to hold her bladder long so I would let her out about every 4 hours or so.
I have read that it's good to have the crate in a central part of the house to make her feel like part of the pack. I agree with that, mine is in my bedroom at night.
Good luck with her!
well don't sleep on the floor with the pup , i would make sure that his sleeping area is nice and warm so that she'll comfy . And also put some toys in there so that the pup can play . Also in the beginning the pup will be withdrawn but that nothing unusual it just because everything is new and she'll need some time to come around . Also make sure to let the pup out before going to bed so that she can do her business .
Good luck .
Well i would say for the first night let the dog sleep with you. Its going to be terrified being in a new place and its going to want to feel loved. Locking it up is going to make it feel unloved. Make sure for the first 24 hours you show the dog how much you love it and play with it.During the next day,let the dog explore and play in the crate. Come that night,put it in the crate. Make sure there is a nice comfy pillow or blanket for it to sleep on. Tell him/her good night. When she starts to bark or wine,just nicely tell her goodnight and no bark. If need,GENTLY tap her nose and say no bark. She will learn that when in her crate at night,its sleep time. Also a suggestion,wear her out before bed. That way when she goes in there she'll fall asleep quick and won't wine. She should only wine for the first few nights. ALSO,you need to make sure she goes potty before you put her to bed. If she's not potty trained you'll need to get up with her 1-2 twice a night to let her out. Only do this until you know she is potty trained,otherwise she'll get use to being let out.
Have fun and good luck. Puppies are so fun!
wow... congrats.
six weeks is a bit young, optimally 8-10 weeks is a lot better and a lot easier on you. During this time, they mature a lot, they develope social skills and bite inhibition, and they are able to hold their urine a bit longer.
At six weeks, i would say, put the crate by the bed and bite the bullet. The puppy will feel better seeing you and smelling you. You may also want to take a small baby blanket with you to pick up your puppy and let all the puppies there lay and play on it. You want it to smell like "home". Put that in the crate with your puppy and make sure there is no draft. Your puppy is going from sleeping with warm bodies to sleeping alone. a warm water bottle secured in a cover is a great help the first few nights.
Now the fun part... remember, the rule of thumb is that the puppy is in the crate for one hour per month of age plus one. So at six weeks, you are looking at no longer than 2.5 hours. I would strongly recommend every 2 hours the first couple of nights though. Your puppy will need to go out every 2 hours day and night. This is the only way to ensure that the puppy learns to not go in crate.
Also, check out the ultimate puppy toolkit. It was a life saver with our puppies, and i know other people who have had great success with it.
Congratulations! and remember to ignore that puppy tonight unless it is time to go outside.
put a wind up clock in the cage wrapped in a soft towel the noise will comfort it
First night away from the litter will be hard for her. If you let her sleep in your bed though, it will just be harder later to move her off. If you want to let her sleep in your bed for the rest of her life, cool, do it. But if you don't plan on continuing to let her sleep in your bed, use the crate.
When I got my puppy, I let her sleep in a crate by my bed. She cried most of the first night, and still cried a lot for the next two nights, or so. After that she only cried if she needed to go to the bathroom (young puppies sometimes can't make it through the night, so plan on trekking outside in the middle of the night). Now she never cries in her crate, and actually really enjoys it.
A tip for getting her used to the crate is to feed her in the crate for the first week. I didn't know to do this... but I wish I had. If you feed her in the crate she will think it's an awesome place to be, and not be so upset when you close her in.
It really is best to leave a puppy with its litter and mother until 8 weeks. And some states do have laws preventing puppies from being sold before a certain age. In my state, the law is 7 weeks. I guess it is not possible for you to leave the puppy with its mother for another 2 weeks, but if there is any way, that would be best.
Okay, for one thing, its not against the law! i just got a puppy yesterday and she is 6-7 weeks old, so dont worry about it.. i got really lucky with my puppy because she actually likes being in her crate and doesnt mind it, she falls asleep right away so when you get her, try to find out whether shes good in a crate or not, if she is, then just put her in the crate and sleep in your bed, and see if she calms down when others are around her, because if you sleep next to her crate then she might want to come out wiht you, maybe putting the crate by your bed would be a better idea because she would know that you are close, and what i do is, if i wake up in the middle of the night i take her out for a few minutes. I hope I helpedf! good luck!
Get a little blanket and put it in the pen.Then get a towel and fold it small.She will go to warm and get up next to it.Get the room dark and keep it that way.She will know that dark is for sleeping.Cover the pen if you can.Don't go to the pen if she cries.Just rattle it a little til she stops then ignore her.Make sure to take her potty,or put a puppy pad in the pen in case.Enjoy her she'll be fine...
We want to make this transition as easy as possible for the little gal, and were wondering if it would be a good idea to sleep on the floor next to the crate for the first night.or should we just bite the bullet and sleep in our bed and deal with the yelping all night? We are going to have the crate next to the bed if we do that.
Do you think if we sleep on the floor by the dog...will that set us up for failure?
Any other tips for the first night with a new puppy would be appreciated.
Thank you
Answers:
1) See if you can get the owners to give you a toy, blanket, or towel that she's been with so far. Since it will remind her of mom and littermates, it may ease her transition. Take one with you and try to get the smell of her current home or siblings on it (just in case the owner doesn't have something).
2) Go to PetSmart (if you can before you get her) and look at the Life Stages brand of toys. They have one that you can heat up in the microwave a bit to soothe new puppies. If you can't do this, try to find a medicinal hot water bottle at a drugstore if you don't have one, and put warm water in it and wrap in a towel to put with her.
3) Play with her A LOT before bed - get her to run around and wear her out. Tired dogs settle down more easily.
4) Set up her crate in the room where you'll sleep - preferably in a spot where she can see you. Expect that she'll cry some (about 10-30 minutes, usually) but she should settle down after that. If she wakes during the night and cries, take her out to potty - pups can't hold it very long and she may be 3-4 months before she can hold it overnight.
your pup should be with her mother and litter mates until she is at least 8 weeks old
it is against the law to buy or adopt a dog under the age of 8 weeks
I think maybe a pet taxi crate with covered sides would have been better . I think there will be yelping either way cause she misses her mom and brothers and sisters . but go to bed like normal and tell her good night and go to sleep . she should be okay in a few days . good luck the first night is always the hardest .
.just what "ann s" said. 6 weeks is too young!!!
No matter what you do a new puppy is going to cry the first week at least but they get used to it. Something that worked with my puppy was putting a clock that ticks next to the kennel and it soothes them. Eventually they will just get used to it and start going in the kennel on their own once it's bed time. Eventually you can even put a puppy pillow down and start having her get used to sleeping on the pillow instead of the crate.
When I brought my puppy home, the breeders recommended sleeping close to the puppy's crate. I tried this and he still cried all night long. The next night, I slept in a separate room and he did much better.
Our puppy, which we no longer have, slept in his plastic crate the first night we got him. He was very shy (yours willl be too probably) I put a soft blanket and newspaper inside and left a small light on. He did fine,but I would suggest waking up earlier than usual to take her out to pee or poop.
Put a warm blanket in there that she can chew on. Under the blanket put a warm ( not hot) squishy bottle of water under the sheets. Also a place a ticking clock under there or next to the crate. The clock is like mommas heart beat and the bottle is the warmth of momma. This will give some comfort to the lil blind gal.
I brought my pup home at 7 weeks... for the first night I slept on the floor with her. I didn't have a crate for about a week, and the yelping broke my heart!! =) She adapted quickly to sleeping on her own in a crate. Good luck to you and lots of patience!!!!
Make sure the crate has a comfy blanket in it. Put a hot water bottle and ticking alarm clock to make the puppy hear it's mother's heartbeat and feel her warmth. If that doesn't help your new baby, put a radio very near the crate so the dog can listen to very quiet and restful music. That helped my new pup once. Don't sleep near or fuss with the dog at night or when your going away from the house. She will develope separation anxiety, then you will have a serious problem. She should learn to love her crate. My dog (from long ago) loved his crate so much that he would go into it and shut the door himself.
I would put her in the crate with something soft maybe a stuffed animal. I did that with my puppy and she didn't really cry. I also put a blanket over the crate so she felt safe and hidden. I kept the door uncovered. She will get used to it and you won't have to train her twice. Remember that she is too little to hold her bladder long so I would let her out about every 4 hours or so.
I have read that it's good to have the crate in a central part of the house to make her feel like part of the pack. I agree with that, mine is in my bedroom at night.
Good luck with her!
well don't sleep on the floor with the pup , i would make sure that his sleeping area is nice and warm so that she'll comfy . And also put some toys in there so that the pup can play . Also in the beginning the pup will be withdrawn but that nothing unusual it just because everything is new and she'll need some time to come around . Also make sure to let the pup out before going to bed so that she can do her business .
Good luck .
Well i would say for the first night let the dog sleep with you. Its going to be terrified being in a new place and its going to want to feel loved. Locking it up is going to make it feel unloved. Make sure for the first 24 hours you show the dog how much you love it and play with it.During the next day,let the dog explore and play in the crate. Come that night,put it in the crate. Make sure there is a nice comfy pillow or blanket for it to sleep on. Tell him/her good night. When she starts to bark or wine,just nicely tell her goodnight and no bark. If need,GENTLY tap her nose and say no bark. She will learn that when in her crate at night,its sleep time. Also a suggestion,wear her out before bed. That way when she goes in there she'll fall asleep quick and won't wine. She should only wine for the first few nights. ALSO,you need to make sure she goes potty before you put her to bed. If she's not potty trained you'll need to get up with her 1-2 twice a night to let her out. Only do this until you know she is potty trained,otherwise she'll get use to being let out.
Have fun and good luck. Puppies are so fun!
wow... congrats.
six weeks is a bit young, optimally 8-10 weeks is a lot better and a lot easier on you. During this time, they mature a lot, they develope social skills and bite inhibition, and they are able to hold their urine a bit longer.
At six weeks, i would say, put the crate by the bed and bite the bullet. The puppy will feel better seeing you and smelling you. You may also want to take a small baby blanket with you to pick up your puppy and let all the puppies there lay and play on it. You want it to smell like "home". Put that in the crate with your puppy and make sure there is no draft. Your puppy is going from sleeping with warm bodies to sleeping alone. a warm water bottle secured in a cover is a great help the first few nights.
Now the fun part... remember, the rule of thumb is that the puppy is in the crate for one hour per month of age plus one. So at six weeks, you are looking at no longer than 2.5 hours. I would strongly recommend every 2 hours the first couple of nights though. Your puppy will need to go out every 2 hours day and night. This is the only way to ensure that the puppy learns to not go in crate.
Also, check out the ultimate puppy toolkit. It was a life saver with our puppies, and i know other people who have had great success with it.
Congratulations! and remember to ignore that puppy tonight unless it is time to go outside.
put a wind up clock in the cage wrapped in a soft towel the noise will comfort it
First night away from the litter will be hard for her. If you let her sleep in your bed though, it will just be harder later to move her off. If you want to let her sleep in your bed for the rest of her life, cool, do it. But if you don't plan on continuing to let her sleep in your bed, use the crate.
When I got my puppy, I let her sleep in a crate by my bed. She cried most of the first night, and still cried a lot for the next two nights, or so. After that she only cried if she needed to go to the bathroom (young puppies sometimes can't make it through the night, so plan on trekking outside in the middle of the night). Now she never cries in her crate, and actually really enjoys it.
A tip for getting her used to the crate is to feed her in the crate for the first week. I didn't know to do this... but I wish I had. If you feed her in the crate she will think it's an awesome place to be, and not be so upset when you close her in.
It really is best to leave a puppy with its litter and mother until 8 weeks. And some states do have laws preventing puppies from being sold before a certain age. In my state, the law is 7 weeks. I guess it is not possible for you to leave the puppy with its mother for another 2 weeks, but if there is any way, that would be best.
Okay, for one thing, its not against the law! i just got a puppy yesterday and she is 6-7 weeks old, so dont worry about it.. i got really lucky with my puppy because she actually likes being in her crate and doesnt mind it, she falls asleep right away so when you get her, try to find out whether shes good in a crate or not, if she is, then just put her in the crate and sleep in your bed, and see if she calms down when others are around her, because if you sleep next to her crate then she might want to come out wiht you, maybe putting the crate by your bed would be a better idea because she would know that you are close, and what i do is, if i wake up in the middle of the night i take her out for a few minutes. I hope I helpedf! good luck!
Get a little blanket and put it in the pen.Then get a towel and fold it small.She will go to warm and get up next to it.Get the room dark and keep it that way.She will know that dark is for sleeping.Cover the pen if you can.Don't go to the pen if she cries.Just rattle it a little til she stops then ignore her.Make sure to take her potty,or put a puppy pad in the pen in case.Enjoy her she'll be fine...
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